In the footsteps of the teak wallahs in northern Thailand: legacy of logging on show
- The early 20th century teak industry left northern Thailand scarred but also peppered with magnificent examples of local architecture, seen on its ‘teak trail’
The teak tree is a tropical hardwood native to parts of India and Southeast Asia. Prized for its durability and natural oils, it was once highly sought after for the construction of boats and furniture.
In the late 19th century the European powers, having colonised its neighbours, turned their focus towards Thailand’s untapped teak reserves. This led to an uneasy alliance between logging firms, the Siamese government and local rulers – an alliance marked by suspicion, double dealing and rebellion.
Keen to learn more, I embark on a journey along Thailand’s “teak trail” through the country’s northern Lanna region, to better understand how this plain-looking tree gave rise to the Thai nation as we know it today.
At one time, the country would have been filled with such buildings. Today, these relocated specimens serve as a reminder of the abundant teak forests that once covered these lands.
“The Burmese were the first to come here, having depleted teak reserves on the western side of the Salween River,” says Kittichai Wattananikorn, a retired professor and local author, who has offered to show me some of the sights.