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DNA testing offers expertise knowledge of the exact cream or serum for you

So you think a customised formula, which caters to your skin type, is the answer to a do-it-all magic cream, how about bespoke skincare regime and products designed according to your genetic coding? No more guesswork, just a tailor-made cocktail of ingredients to address your present and future skin issues.

"Genetic testing takes a step further than those one-size-fits-all 'it' creams," says Stefan Mazy, founder of Australia-based SkinDNA Clinics, which offer genetic mapping and work with various skincare partners on facial treatments and products. "DNA information and a customised treatment plan can help you achieve the optimum level of intrinsic and extrinsic dermal protection with long-term results."

Since the first accurate human genome sequence was completed in 2003, the technology has advanced rapidly. The costs and complexity of DNA testing have fallen dramatically, allowing commercial application of the technology in fields from medication to lifestyle.

French label Les Ornates Laboratoire offers skincare and hair treatments according to your genetic coding. Photo: Shutterstock

While some off-the-rack luxury creams are selling for more than HK$10,000 a jar, interest in truly bespoke skincare solutions is on the rise. High-end beauty salons and luxury skincare brands are quickly picking up the trend of DNA-based skincare products. The past few years have seen the rise of independent DNA testing labs and clinics with a focus on lifestyle and skincare across the globe.

Sepai from Spain offers a highly customised set of serums and creams based on one's genetic codes that will set you back at least HK$26,000 for a six-month course. Business has taken off quickly since its launch in 2007 and counts Hollywood celebrities Angelina Jolie and Leonardo di Caprio among its fans.

London's GENEU Clinic, set up by Imperial College of London's Professor Chris Toumazou, provides genetic profiles via a 30-minute DNA test and customise anti-ageing serums accordingly. Such serums cost about HK$7,000 for a two-week course and HK$39,000 for an additional year.

Spanish skincare brand Sepai's DNA-specific skincare box set.

The Organic Pharmacy offers skincare products genetically suited to one's skin type in its London flagship store.

DNA-based products have also expanded to body and hair treatments. French label Les Ornates Laboratoire creates customised hair treatments as well as skincare products according to your DNA coding. While its two-month supply of hair treatment set costs HK$9,500, a two-month course of skincare collection sets you back HK$18,000.

The process of having your own personalised treatment plan begins with a simple cheek swab for DNA testing. The test looks at specific markers that affect one's skin condition, such as collagen degradation and the rate of antioxidant metabolism. Test results map out your genetic blueprint which shows skin risks, skin firmness, sun damage, free radical damage, allergy and sensitivity. "The test can give you insight into various aspects of your wellness, from your diet to the kind of exercise and skincare products that you need," says Lital Isaacs, founder of DNA testing lab DrGene.

Paola Gugliotta, CEO of Sepai skincare. Sepai offers bespoke skincare solutions according to an individual's DNA.

Knowing your skin condition on a genetic level makes you look at your skincare regime from a completely different perspective. "There's no such thing as a one-size-fits-all formula," says Eric Chen of VITA-Genes, a Hong Kong-based skincare DNA testing firm. "Even if you pay for a luxurious cream with all the precious ingredients in it, if it's not for you, it doesn't work. Knowing your genetic mapping allows you to address specific issues and also prevents problems before they emerge."

Founder of The Organic Pharmacy Margo Marrone agrees. "Based on the DNA results, the skincare and supplement regime [we come up with will suit the client's needs]. For example, if someone shows high collagen degradation we would recommend collagen boosting skincare products and supplements," she explains.

In addition to addressing existing skin problems, DNA-based skincare focuses on risk prevention.

"The information is very useful as it can highlight weaknesses in your genetic make-up that will allow us to [help you] make lifestyle changes so that problem genes can be suppressed," Marrone says.

Products based on genetic coding are gaining popularity in the world of beauty.

Apart from professional players which focus on genetic coding, mainstream beauty salons and beauty brands are also adopting DNA tests as value-added services. Japanese brand SKII rolled out a campaign in January to offer DNA tests to its VIP customers.

Knowing your genetic blueprint will help you find the right products, but DNA isn't the only factor at play. Environmental influences and lifestyle habits also affect your skin condition. Some skincare brands go beyond genetic test results for a more wholesome approach.

Sepai's premium Gene Decode line includes not only DNA testing but also a three-page questionnaire which takes a closer look at one's lifestyle habits such as diet, fitness level, whether they smoke and more.

SkinDNA's DNA tester

The Organic Pharmacy also asks clients to complete a detailed questionnaire before getting treatment. "What we've found with anti-ageing DNA tests is that they are limited to one element - antioxidant or collagen," Marrone explains. "Ageing is much more complicated than that, so we use biofeedback body scanning to determine [antioxidant and collagen] levels, stress levels, toxicity levels, and diet and nutrition for a more holistic approach."

The luxury bespoke experience extends beyond skincare products to consultations and after-sales care.

"It's very important for us to understand our clients' preferences including the texture and smell of the cream and serum," says Sepai's co-founder Katia Tolmacheva. "We will adjust the formula after the first six-month course," she says.

SKII is also embracing DNA sequencing for VIP customers.

"The products can be delivered anywhere in the world in a leather box engraved with the clients' initials."

High-end DNA-based skincare products are catering to savvy customers who refuse to settle for off-the-rack alternatives.

"Customers' perceptions of skincare products have changed," Tolmacheva says.

"People now take skincare very seriously. They read the labels on their moisturisers and they know the ingredients."

 

WHERE TO GET IT


The Spanish skincare brand offers premium DNA-based sets of four to five creams and serums for HK$26,000. Delivery takes up to six weeks. Customised facial and body products are also available. 


The London skincare brand takes a cheek swab for a genetic profile. The report comes out in 30 minutes. The range created by Professor Chris Toumazou won him the European Inventor Award (2014). The two-week initial course is about HK$7,000, and an additional annual subscription costs about HK$39,000. 


The French brand takes about two to four weeks to process your DNA test and offers bespoke hair treatment sets - including shampoo, conditioner, serum and hair mask - priced at HK$30,900 a year and skincare sets priced at HK$79,900 a year. The products are exclusively available in Hong Kong at Hair Corner salon. 


In 2012, the British skincare brand launched anti-ageing DNA testing at its London flagship store. Its signature Gene Expression Serum retails for about HK$2,560. 


The Australia-based company offers genetic testing and works with various business partners to provide consultations and gene-specific skin treatments. The report takes about five days and costs up to HK$11,630. 

 

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Coded message

In the world of beauty, skincare products specially designed for your genetic make-up are in demand, writes Vivian Chen