Vacheron Constantin celebrates 260 years with the 'most complicated watch' embracing innovation and tradition
Gaynor Thomas
Vacheron Constantin has little to prove, given its hallowed history and position among the elite of watchmaking. But it is in its nature to keep exploring and innovating, and so the company continues to surprise.
“This is a very important year for Vacheron Constantin, as we are celebrating 260 years of uninterrupted history,” says CEO Juan-Carlos Torres. “Watches&Wonders visitors will be able to discover the ‘Most Complicated Watch’, incorporating new and unique complications, entirely created and designed by our master watchmakers over a period of eight years and commissioned by a collector.” The “Most Complicated Watch”, Reference 57260, is a double-dial, entirely original creation with 57 complications, including multiple calendars and a double retrograde rattrapante chronograph. Complications such as these, as well as being conceived, designed and manufactured from the ground up, need to be incorporated into the overall design of the watch. Even conventional complications have to be modified and a new movement created.
Noteworthy as a triumph of watchmaking is the Hebraic Perpetual Calendar, a complication which has not been done before. Complex mathematical calculations are presented in a logical, readable display. The Double Retrograde Rattrapante Chronograph is another first. It is visually bold and mechanically ingenious, read in the same way as a split-seconds chronograph, though the two hands never actually meet but operate on two separate scales on opposing sides of the dial. There are two register dials for the chronograph, counting each elapsed minute up to 60 minutes and each elapsed hour up to 12 hours so that events of up to 12 hours in duration can be accurately recorded.
Other features are the Westminster Chiming, Alarm and Special Night-Silence Feature; the latter is developed so that it does not chime between 10pm and 8am without needing to be manually set. It doesn’t end there: a digital world-time display, a double perpetual calendar and a fully visible armillary sphere tourbillon are also features of Ref 57260.
With so many complications, Ref 57260 has to offer ease of use. A three-position winding crown has a corresponding indication window on the caseband to show the position of the crown during winding or setting. A coaxial button in the crown controls the start/stop and return-to- zero functions of the double retrograde chronograph, and the push-button in the caseband at 11 o’clock activates and restarts the rattrapante chronograph function.
The watch is realised in polished 18ct white gold with glazed bezels, and the lines are clean and elegant. Even the alarm winding crown is flush-fit in the caseband. There are dials on each side with rotating discs for display. The hours, minutes and seconds are shown on separate chapter rings. Vacheron Constantin craftsmen will be in Hong Kong to demonstrate their work at Watches&Wonders, giving visitors the chance to explore the many complications of Ref 57260.
How does Vacheron Constantin marry this spirit of innovation with respect for tradition? Torres says: “Vacheron Constantin is proud to be the oldest manufacture in continuous production, thanks to its founding values, supported and transmitted through four centuries, dedicated to the same commitment to high watchmaking excellence.
“This long heritage is not only a great source of inspiration for our timepieces, but also installs Vacheron Constantin as a key player in the Genevan and Swiss watchmaking history up to the present time.