Van Cleef & Arpels gives iconic watch a modern remake at Watches&Wonders
Pin Lee
Van Cleef & Arpels is putting its Cadenas watch in the spotlight at Watches&Wonders. With the impressive billing of “A Jewel that Tells the Time”, Cadenas is a name well-known to followers of the maison. It was created in 1935, is associated with the duchess of Windsor, and has an iconic padlock-like attachment.
“Our history is a great source of inspiration,” says Nicolas Bos, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, “and Cadenas is indeed one of the signature designs of this heritage.
Unique, bold and avant-garde, its lines have not changed since the 1930s.“This year, we have decided to reintroduce this icon with slight changes on the clasp and dial. It will definitely be one of the highlights of Watches&Wonders 2015. We will also host a patrimonial exhibition to highlight the importance of the Cadenas in the maison’s history as well as the creative environment in which it was born.”
The design of Cadenas was avant-garde in 1935, and it is just as contemporary now, with its pure lines and jewellery ethos. The collection at Watches&Wonders has some changes from the original. In 1935, the Cadenas was worn like jewellery, with its time function as discreet as possible, in line with contemporary mores; the 2015 version has an enlarged dial and 12 hour markers. The construction of the clasp has been altered to make it more secure. And, most thrilling to jewellery lovers, there are also diamond versions.
There are nine models in the collection, all with quartz movements, and all instantly recognisable as a Cadenas. The original bracelet was in the form of a double snake chain, and it is still used, with the option of an alligator strap.
The Cadenas Sertie, in yellow or white gold with a mother-of-pearl dial, is distinctive for its misting of white diamonds in a serti neige, or snow setting, over the top of the case and the attachment of the alligator strap. The Bracelet Or version has the double snake chain bracelet.
Another new model is the Cadenas Pavée, in white or pink gold. Princess-cut diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds adorn the white gold model, while pink sapphires and diamonds bejewel the pink gold version. For Bos and his team, there is a lot more going on at Van Cleef & Arpels. “For Watches&Wonders 2015, the maison wants to highlight Cadenas, but also present the uniqueness of the maison’s approach to métiers d’art – the choice and combination of crafts to tell stories.
“We will reveal for the first time two stories around the theme of ‘Enchanting Nature’: the Oiseaux Enchantés, with a combination of hard stone marquetry, and for the first time miniature feather art, as well as the Peau d’Ane dials. Inspired by the High Jewellery collection, these bejewelled dials display great volume and convey all the enchantment of the Peau d’Ane fairy tale.”
The craft skills of Van Cleef & Arpels are legendary and shown to perfection in nine models, four of which will be seen for the first time at Watches&Wonders.