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Gübelin launches Pioneer high jewellery collections inspired by the interior elements of gemstones

The making of the Wings of a Dragonfly ruby necklace.

What is luxury? It is an age-old question. This year, Swiss luxury brand Gübelin is reintroducing its philosophy of luxury to the world through the launch of a brand-new high-jewellery collection.

Titled “Deeply Inspired”, the campaign focuses not on the exterior beauty of the stones but highlights the beauty of the gem’s interior, including the inclusions, the microscopic fissures, bubbles and striations.

Sapphire ring inspired by glowing jellyfish.
The 160-year old family-owned maison follows the footsteps of Eduard Josef (1913-2005), an important gemologist of the 20th century and a member of the Gübelin family, who discovered that inclusions were, in fact, key to the stone’s life and not mere blemishes. Inspired by his discovery, Gübelin’s new approach to jewellery highlights the mysteries within the gemstones that evoke different elements of nature.

Gübelin’s new Pioneer collection is based on its profound new jewellery aesthetics. The result is six exciting new lines, including the Glowing Ember and Sparks of Fire lines that are inspired by ruby inclusions, Glowing Jellyfish and Drops of Water lines inspired by bubble inclusions in sapphires, and Ornament of Flowers and Ancient Path lines, inspired by emerald and beryl inclusions.

One of the masterpieces from the new collection is the Wings of a Dragonfly, a stunning ruby and diamond necklace that designers at Gübelin have created according to the fine structure of a dragonfly’s wing. The two intricate wings hold up a fiery ruby at the centre, which comes with a Gübelin jewellery certificate of authentication, and a gemological report from the independent Gübelin Gem Lab.

Stephanie Ip