Science plays a crucial role in the development of skincare products
While there are plenty of products to choose from, there's more to skincare than meets the eye
At last count, I had one drawer full of summer skincare, one drawer full of winter skincare, one cabinet full of skincare that I was "testing" - and one face.
It's a confusing world out there. We're spoilt for choice when it comes to the myriad lotions, creams, serums, gels and masques that we can put on our face. Each one promises to deliver radiance, moisture, elasticity, smoothness - the proverbial fountain of youth bottled in slick packaging with an alluring name. Looking past the marketing isn't always easy, and experts in the industry tell us how to focus on the issues that matter and clue us in to the latest technology available.
"Consumer behaviour is changing dramatically these days. They want to see results very quickly," says Dr Daniel Stangl, director of innovation for La Prairie. He points out that product efficacy is strongly tied to the smart delivery of active ingredients, which is where much of their brand's research and development is focused at the moment.
"The delivery mechanism is important," says Dr Joseph K. H. Wong, a specialist in family medicine with a diploma of practical dermatology. "Our skin is very impermeable in order to protect us from contamination such as bacteria or viruses. While small molecules such as vitamin C [can easily] be absorbed through the skin, larger molecules need specific technology to assist in penetration."
The kind of technology Wong is referring to and that La Prairie is looking at is sub-micron and encapsulation technology. The former, Stangl says, refers to the use of sub-micron-sized crystals to enhance the penetration efficacy of active ingredients - which "will feature prominently in our products in the future", he promises.
Encapsulation technology, on the other hand, refers to a more efficient way to parcel the active ingredients. "The active is sent to where it's needed in the skin, targeting specific cells and skin layers," Stangl explains. "Once we master this technology, we'll improve efficacy tremendously."
These echo the sentiments voiced by Dr Yannis Alexandrides, founder of 111SKIN, a brand that first came to Hong Kong in July last year. The brand, named after 111 Harley Street, the address of its cosmetic centre and where Alexandrides practised as a plastic surgeon, is best known for its Black Diamond Collection. The line's products use nano particles to deliver the brand's NAC Y2 formula, along with arbutin and hyaluronic acid, into the deeper layers of the skin.
"It's essentially a transportation: the best way I can describe it is that the ingredients adhere to the surface of the Black Diamond nano particles and they travel easier through the skin," he says. "People are now looking for cutting edge scientific products. The search for the fountain of youth hasn't changed … but people are now very results-oriented. They're comfortable stepping out of their comfort zone and trying a new brand."