New York brand Abasi Rosborough designs menswear with sustainable materials and ergonomic style

Fashion Institute of Technology alumni Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough set up Abasi Rosborough three years ago to renovate menswear design. Vivian Chen caught up with the creative duo during their first Hong Kong visit to launch the collection in Harvey Nichols. 

(GR= Greg Rosborough AA= Abdul Abasi) 

Q: Can you tell us about the brand’s philosophy?

GR: There are more than enough clothes in the world for the next 200 years. So if you’re going to be a new designer, you better have a reason for doing so. A traditional suit designed in the 1860s in London is over 150 years old. It’s not working anymore because you have no range of motion. You cannot raise your arms, and there are all these outdated details. So we wanted to develop a men’s suit for the future. We created panels so [the wearer] can breathe and move in the suit. That’s how we got started.

Q: Did you start the brand with the vision of making it global?

GR: Initially, we wanted to [remain as] an American brand – everything was made in New York and we would probably just sell in America. But then our first [clients] were from Tokyo, Dubai, Kuwait and Hong Kong. So we had to think of the brand in a global way immediately, which was great. I think our message has been resonating.

Q: Some designers approach the theme of modernity with innovative fabrics. What is your approach?

AA: All the fabrics we use are natural. For us, instead of looking at the new polyester-based innovations, we look at fabrics and fibres that have existed for centuries. For example, wool is one of the most interesting and functional fabrics. It keeps you warm in the winter and keeps you cool in the summer. It’s odour-resistant and anti-bacterial. So instead of trying to reinvent the wheel by using polyester-based materials, we use natural fibres. We also use natural fibres because we believe that a garment has a life of its own, and as the wearer wears it, it is [reshaped according to his body] and becomes part of him. So we believe these fabrics are the most modern.

Q: Can you explain to us the ergonomic considerations that go into your designs?