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Chanel unveils Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif with a campaign starring Timothée Chalamet

STORYVincenzo La Torre
Timothée Chalamet stars in the campaign for Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif. Photo: Handout
Timothée Chalamet stars in the campaign for Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif. Photo: Handout
Chanel

In-house perfume creator Olivier Polge has reimagined the brand’s signature men’s perfume for a new era, featuring woody, leathery notes

When Chanel’s in-house perfumer Olivier Polge began to develop a new scent based on one of the brand’s signature fragrances, Bleu de Chanel, he was faced with the challenge of reinventing a classic. The Parisian maison’s most popular men’s fragrance was first created as an eau de toilette in 2010 by none other than Olivier’s father, Jacques Polge, the man behind many of Chanel’s most beloved perfumes.
“I was looking to push the signature of Bleu somehow to an extreme level,” says Polge fils when we meet him in Bangkok for the debut of the fragrance, which launched with a new campaign starring Chanel ambassador Timothée Chalamet.
Timothée Chalamet discovering Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif. Photo: Handout
Timothée Chalamet discovering Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif. Photo: Handout
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Sensing that men’s taste in perfume has evolved significantly over the last few years, Polge wanted to offer them something “with more depth, more texture and more strength”.

The dapper Frenchman recalls how for a long time, men’s scents were supposed to be more “discreet” than their female counterparts, with an almost “hygienic” quality, as he puts it. His goal with this new take on Bleu – named Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif – was to challenge those enduring stereotypes and “technically put as much intention, as much identity and as much craftsmanship behind it as we do for women’s perfumes”.

Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif is described as woody and leathery. Photo: Handout
Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif is described as woody and leathery. Photo: Handout
When describing L’Exclusif, Olivier uses words such as woody and leathery. With ingredients ranging from cedarwood and vetiver to a sandalwood from New Caledonia that Olivier says has warm, deep and oaky notes, L’Exclusif is not for the faint of heart. Unlike fragrances that tend to complement your skin and gently dissipate, L’Exclusif lingers and then some. “It is made of a lot of background notes, mainly wood and leather,” explains Olivier. “It’s not a soft fragrance, it’s textured. It’s not a mild, enveloping scent, a cocooning type of note.”

As with the original eau de toilette dating back to 2010, the starting point for Olivier was the colour blue. But how do you translate a colour into a scent?

“It’s not easy. What is true is that for perfumes, we have always been struggling with our vocabulary,” says Polge. “[It’s also the same for] music because I think that there are many parallels, but with colours, there are certain easy parallels to make between many scents, like how the smell of lemon recalls yellow. ... There are so many things that are blue for men, but this Chanel blue is a very specific dark blue, which I find interesting. And what I like is its proximity to black.”

Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in-house perfume creator, is behind this addition to the brand’s fragrance portfolio. Photo: Handout
Olivier Polge, Chanel’s in-house perfume creator, is behind this addition to the brand’s fragrance portfolio. Photo: Handout
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