Explainer / Are more expensive mascaras really better? Dior, Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent all offer the make-up staple – here’s how to choose the best product to lengthen or volumise lashes without dreaded clumps

Jan 27, 2024

Are luxury mascaras, like Dior’s Diorshow Iconic Overcurl (pictured), really worth splurging on? And what difference does a mascara’s wand make? Photos: Handouts

Diorshow is great for lengthening, Le Volume de Chanel sets and boosts lash curl, while Yves Saint Laurent’s Lash Clash Extreme Volume is legendary for its ability to resist smudging

Besides containing a formula that plumps up lashes without clumping, a good mascara should have a wand fit for the purpose, depending on your main beauty objective

Known as the quintessential hero of make-up, mascara proudly holds the coveted title of the most frequently used cosmetic product, according to American market research company The NPD Group. Often taken for granted yet utterly indispensable, mascara is essential to the morning routines of many who simply can’t leave home without that swift sweep of peeper-enlarging magic.

However, amid the overwhelming array of options that line the shelves of your local cosmetics store, the quest to find your ideal mascara can leave you feeling lost.

Carolina Herrera Fabulous Eyes smudge-proof mascara

At its core, mascara is more than a mere tube of pigmented goo with a wand; its primary purpose is to darken, lengthen, thicken and define the dainty hairs that frame our eyes, accentuating one of the most captivating features of the human face. But with more mascara options than days in a year, the challenge lies in decoding which one suits your needs best. Whether in service of dramatic volume, striking length or a natural-looking enhancement, mascara has proven itself the go-to tool in make-up bags worldwide.

Carolina Pizarro, a Los Angeles-based celebrity make-up artist, believes everyone’s experience with mascara is deeply personal. “So many factors influence the quest for the perfect mascara,” she notes. “Lash thickness, waterproof or regular formulas, and the desire for a dramatic or natural look all come into play.” At the end of the day, regardless of whether your mascara hails from the realm of luxury or the aisles of a pharmacy, if it fits the kind of finish you’re looking for, it’s a winner.

Kat Von D’s Go Big or Go Home volumising mascara

While luxury mascaras may exceed the US$50 mark for a single tube, they promise top-tier ingredients and meticulous formulation. Prestige brands, renowned for their commitment to quality, invest significantly in research and development to craft formulas that excel in every department – from volume, length and curl to longevity – targeting a demographic of beauty lovers who prioritise reputation, value craftsmanship, and are more than willing to invest in their make-up arsenal.

The mascara landscape, however, is filled with gems at both ends of the spectrum. From timeless classics, like Yves Saint Laurent’s Lash Clash Extreme Volume – often celebrated as a holy grail for those seeking a formula resistant to smudging or clumping – to all-time favourites like L’Oréal’s Voluminous Original mascara, a budget-friendly formula professional make-up artists swear by for achieving red carpet-ready lashes. Nevertheless, as Pizarro observes, experiences vary widely. So what separates the good from the mediocre when it comes to mascara? According to Pizarro: mascara should plump up your lashes sans clumps.

Byredo Astronomical volumising, curling and thickening mascara

Length, too, is a pivotal factor, as the magic of mascara depends on its ability to elongate and define lashes while staying put throughout the day. Practicality also plays a significant role: a mascara that smears or flakes can easily transform a triumph into a fiasco, highlighting the importance of a clump-resistant formula. A product’s ability to help you achieve longer, well-defined lashes “can be directly linked to the ingredients in the mascara’s formulation”, Pizarro notes.