In many ways, Roman fashion house Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection – for men and for women – is all about legendary German designer Karl Lagerfeld. As creative director for 50 years, until his death in February, Lagerfeld was as renowned for his work with the Italian label as for his stewardship of Chanel and his own eponymous brand. As testament to Lagerfeld’s legacy, actors Noah Schnapp, Kiernan Shipka, Kim Ji-soo, Emma Mackey, Joey King and Lee Sung-kyung, musicians Jackson Wang and Bakar, filmmaker Luca Guadagnino and designer Yoyo Lu were among the diverse arc of artists, designers and influencers at the men’s or women’s Fall/Winter 2019-2020 fashion show in July, getting a look at what Lagerfeld had in mind for the coming season. Fendi’s Roman tribute to Karl Lagerfeld brings out the stars For men, the collection begins with Lagerfeld’s one-off collaboration with Fendi and with menswear creative director Silvia Venturini, which also makes Lagerfeld the subject of the line. Gigi Hadid closes Fendi, ‘fashion’s longest love story’ Beginning with a futuristic or calligraphic double ‘F’ logo inserted onto accessories, the Fall/Winter collection celebrates Lagerfeld’s signature tailoring, his preferred palette of blacks mixed with classic neutral shades and metallic sheens. Faux three-dimensional, trompe l’oeil, accents are peppered throughout the line, from sleeves or coats forked with zips to contrasting textures, with leather and fur offset against delicate silk organza. Other motifs include asymmetry, as in the wraparound shawl collar, duality, as in futurism and classicism, transparency and volume, and details like Cuban heels on cordovan shoes. The Karl Collage is a series of illustrated Fendi logos, letters and photos that illustrate Lagerfeld’s process on digitally printed silk, shearling intarsia and mesh luggage. Best of all, Fendi’s signature Baguette clutch purse has been given a makeover for men in precious croco or mink and Selleria leather. Many of the motifs and themes in the men’s collection carry over to the women’s line, Lagerfeld’s last before his death. The world according to Karl Lagerfeld: remembering a ‘quote machine’ Keeping the focus on the ideal silhouette, once again simultaneously light and architectural trompe l’oeil and asymmetry are complemented by tulle, patent and calfskin. Merging with bright shades of tangerine sea green and azure blue, latticework textures, pleated trousers, pagoda shoulders, double breasted tailoring and pointed shirt collars giving the women’s collection a distinct personality. Rounding out the season’s collection is the response to the men’s Baguette with a transformation of the original, now polished in embossed pillow patent, topstitched vegetal leather and a modern, functional multi-strap utility harness – which embraces that inimitable Lagerfeld style. Want more stories like this? Sign up here . Follow STYLE on Facebook , Instagram , YouTube and Twitter .
