Men’s jewellery is trending in Asia as K-pop and Chinese celebrities embrace hip-hop swag and rock-star bling by Cartier, Bulgari and Boucheron
Cristiano Ronaldo, Kris Wu, David Beckham, Lu Han and Lewis Hamilton rock earring studs, while Antonio Banderas and Timothée Chalamet stroll the red carpet in diamond brooches – now K-pop is influencing a new generation to bling up
Men’s jewellery has become big business as maisons apply their imagination, ingenuity and skill to craft pieces the male of the species is proud to flaunt.
Ridicule was heaped on a Chinese video streaming site last year when it blurred out the ears of male Chinese actors wearing jewellery. Social media was quick to mock the idea that it was shocking for a man to wear earrings. Many Chinese celebrities, including singers Kris Wu and Lu Han, wear earrings and they are not alone. Footballers Cristiano Ronaldo and David Beckham, racing driver Lewis Hamilton and actor Will Smith all sport diamond ear studs.
The red carpet is increasingly becoming a place for jewellery displays, notably amulets and lapel pins. At the Academy Awards, Mahershala Ali wore a David Yurman EY Signature tsavorite crystal amulet, Antonio Banderas pinned a diamond brooch to the lapel of his tuxedo, and Timothée Chalamet clipped a vintage Cartier ruby and diamond brooch on to the pocket of his navy zip-up blazer. Embracing jewellery, Chalamet has also been seen wearing a Louis Vuitton necklace courtside at an NBA basketball game.
Pop legend Elton John, long noted for his fondness for jewels, pinned a diamond rocket brooch to his lapel for the Oscars and wore three diamond-winged bee brooches for the premiere of Rocketman last year, all made for him by Theo Fennell.
Award shows and high-profile Hollywood premieres are particularly influential when it comes to breaking taboos about men wearing jewellery.
Similarly, K-pop stars are influencing a younger generation of Asian males. As the wardrobe becomes less formal, especially evening wear, jewellery is taking on a greater role. As a result, big jewellery houses like Cartier, Bulgari and Boucheron are increasing their output of fine jewellery designs for men.
Ahead of the pack is London jeweller Stephen Webster, who has designed and made men’s jewellery for more than 20 years, with a distinctive Gothic rock-star panache. The 1970s image of medallion man, he believes, did huge damage to the notion of men wearing jewellery, especially in more conservative corporate circles.
Meanwhile, the music industry and the emergence of rap stars in hip-hop swag and rock-star bling have been keeping the flame for jewellery alive. And the bohemian trend for stacking leather friendship bracelets and colourful rubber festival and charity wristbands really started to break down the barriers.