Ferragamo and Missoni’s shows were among almost 40 presentations in Italy’s fashion capital of the clothes and accessories aiming for men’s wardrobes in autumn and winter 2017/2018.
The Ferragamo collection was the first by young designer Guillaume Meilland, one of several names debuting in these days in Milan, including Ermenegildo Zegna’s Alessandro Sartori.
Meilland was appointed in November to lead the ready-to-wear men’s category, one of a trio of creative managers picked by Eraldo Poletto, chief executive at the Florence-based brand since August.
The biggest influence of the collection, which seamlessly blended a classic look with a younger and more leisurely one, was founder Salvatore Ferragamo himself.
“My greatest inspiration has been to imagine what forms, techniques, materials and philosophies Salvatore would be developing were he alive today,” said Meilland in a statement.
Models wore tailored high-waist trousers matched with tucked-in oversized sweaters, rider and aviator jackets embellished with fur, and long classical print overcoats.
The timeless silhouettes in grey, black or burgundy were interrupted by bright red and blue decorations, sapphire leathers, small necklaces and jewellery pins.
Leather accessories, the brand’s core business, dotted the collection in the shape of oversized handheld bags and big backpacks.
Hours later, Angela Missoni’s take on Japan featured the fashion house’s iconic multi-coloured weaves alongside chequered woollen trousers and tracksuit-like velvet pants.
The Asian influence shone through in metal embroidery, some in the shape of stars, that was inspired by the Japanese ’shibori’ techniques. Abstract and blurred patterns recalled the ’kasuri’ Japanese textiles, a style note by the fashion house explained.
Models walked in a converted industrial space, in one of the city’s fashion centres, with a relaxed yet geeky allure.
They wore thick jumpers, montgomery coats and blazers in layered looks made of different textiles such as cashmere, mohair, yak, camel and alpaca wool.
Many of the looks were completed with matching bucket hats, berets and caps by Paris-based hat maker Larose.
Milan’s five-day menswear fashion events run until Tuesday. Creations by Miuccia Prada and Italian luxury outerwear group Moncler were also on show on Sunday.