Loewe’s autumn-winter 17 show setup was so dark that organisers deployed flashlights to help attendees find their seats. Only rare, exotic orchids stole the spotlight, dotting the otherwise entirely blackened venue before the show. As it turned out, the temporary visual deprivation was foreplay for a feast for the eyes.
Creative director JW Anderson later explained that the darkness symbolised the uncertainties the Loewe heroine faced after the past few seasons. The show notes elaborated: “The dislocating void of setting hints at the uncertain state… Where will she go next? How does she survive?”
For many Loewe lovers, who are independent and sophisticated, it’s a familiar state of mind.
Anderson gave his answer to the dilemma with a collection that flaunts his signature contrasting and collaging style.
Different textures, forms and shades collided: a striped silk column dress traced with chantilly lace; a cable-knit skirt obscured by layers of wool and silk pleats; a shiny black napa contrasted with matte black suede.
There are also the subtly luxurious elements that demonstrate Anderson’s take on the Spanish maison’s heritage and craftsmanship. Column dresses feature leather collars and cuffs with artful gold engraving methods inspired by book binding, for example.
This season also sees Anderson incorporating classic Spanish elements, such as the polka-dots, in both ready to wear and accessories. Leather marquetry is introduced to create these patterns on bags and accessories.
Formal wear is another new area that Anderson explores in this season’s collection. A structured tuxedo jacket features unfinished, raw-seamed lapels that are sleek, modern and versatile.
Following the success of last year’s slogan hammock bag, Loewe launches a new lineup of accessories featuring the tongue-in-cheek line “You Can’t Take It With Me”. A embroidered handkerchief also came with our show invitation.
One of our favourite new bag from this collection is the midnight clutch which comes in napa crocodile leather or collage prints with intarsia dots.
A continuity of his past collection, Anderson has established the identity of a new artsy, modern and luxurious Loewe woman with with beautifully executed collage works, leather manipulation and impeccable cuts. Slowly but surely, he has built a fan following who are happy want to fall for the Loewe universe.
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