Young designers take spotlight during Milan Fashion Week
Highlights from menswear previews in Milan for next spring and summer revealed new looks from Guillaume Meilland, Lee Wood and Munsoo Kwon
A fresh breeze buffeted Italy’s fashion capital during the second day of Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, both literally, bringing relief from the June heat, and figuratively, as young designers took the spotlight.
They brought with them fresh silhouettes with new proportions and reinterpretations of old summertime favorites from linens to stripes.
TEXTURES AT FERRAGAMO
Guillaume Meilland’s second collection for Ferragamo is inspired by the Mediterranean coastline shared by his native France and adopted Italy.
The looks are defined by texture: cable-knit fishermen’s sweaters, velvety shorts, corduroy trousers and suede laser cut tops, all hearty fare for wind-swept seaside strolls. The designer also added touches of whimsy like sea horse prints and coral key chains.
“Yes I like the idea of having, for me, something very Italian, something very much linked to the idea of the holidays and the seaside,” Meilland said backstage. “Textures, colors, we are trying combine soft velvet, English fabrics and heavy linens ... The fluid and something more rough.”
The looks combined for an effortless silhouette that Meilland said was inspired by the 1960 French film “Purple Noon,” based on the Patricia Highsmith’s “Ripley” novels.
Ferragamo’s footwear included penny loafers or slip on moccasins with rubber soles adorned with the trademark buckle for the city or rope accents for the seaside.
BRUTALISM AT BIKKEMBERGS
Lee Wood laid the seams bare at Dirk Bikkembergs during his second season as its creative director.