A fresh breeze buffeted Italy’s fashion capital during the second day of Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, both literally, bringing relief from the June heat, and figuratively, as young designers took the spotlight.
They brought with them fresh silhouettes with new proportions and reinterpretations of old summertime favorites from linens to stripes.
TEXTURES AT FERRAGAMO
Guillaume Meilland’s second collection for Ferragamo is inspired by the Mediterranean coastline shared by his native France and adopted Italy.
The looks are defined by texture: cable-knit fishermen’s sweaters, velvety shorts, corduroy trousers and suede laser cut tops, all hearty fare for wind-swept seaside strolls. The designer also added touches of whimsy like sea horse prints and coral key chains.
“Yes I like the idea of having, for me, something very Italian, something very much linked to the idea of the holidays and the seaside,” Meilland said backstage. “Textures, colors, we are trying combine soft velvet, English fabrics and heavy linens ... The fluid and something more rough.”
The looks combined for an effortless silhouette that Meilland said was inspired by the 1960 French film “Purple Noon,” based on the Patricia Highsmith’s “Ripley” novels.
Ferragamo’s footwear included penny loafers or slip on moccasins with rubber soles adorned with the trademark buckle for the city or rope accents for the seaside.
BRUTALISM AT BIKKEMBERGS
Lee Wood laid the seams bare at Dirk Bikkembergs during his second season as its creative director.
The clean collection revealed the construction details that create rhythms with their repetition, from the patchwork trousers to the intarsia knitwear.
Wood said he was inspired by the brutalism architectural movement of the late 1960s and early 1970s that stood against adornment.
“I wanted it to be brutal. I wanted it to be honest. I wanted it to be like men should be,” Lee said backstage. “I don’t want to see men all pretty and perfect. I think a man should be rugged.”
The lines were simple, with neat T-shirts with scooped necks paired with urban patchwork trousers cut from natural fabrics. The cuffs were turned up to reveal the rough seam. Heavy boots and utilitarian sandals anchored the looks.
Suit jackets were worn with shorts that were nearly bloomers in proportion, a fob to summer, while some trousers were festooned with maxi-pockets. Tops, by contrast, were soft, like one that was a patchwork of gold, light blue and white.
While the materials were mostly natural fibres and the colour palette based on hues of blue, white and slate grey, the collection closed with flashes of green and Japanese technical fabric.
YOLO FROM KOREA
Korean designer Munsoo Kwon made his Milan debut in the Armani theatre with a collection that contained some measure of autobiography.
The triptych collection includes pieces based on European tailoring, Korean military wear and a series of character looks. The thread that connects them all: The YOLO phenomenon, previously, before the invention of abbreviation-loving social media, known as “You Only Live Once.”
The 37-year-old Kwon expresses his whimsy with out-of-proportion cuts: Boyish striped sweaters that are part of his character series are gigantic with wide, trailing arms, dwarfing the wearer.
The military looks are elongated and soft, not your usual regimented rendering. And the tailored outfits are clean and elegant, featuring pinstripe pants with long belts worn with a pajama-inspired top and a trench coat with bell sleeves.