Guests were wowed by magnificent scenography as they arrived at Sarah Burton’s spring/summer 2018 show for Alexander McQueen at Orangerie du Sénat at Paris Fashion Week.
Gazebos were decorated with tulle tapestries in which wildflowers, embroidered or rendered in feathers, needed to be observed up close to get a sense of the craftsmanship behind the ambience.
A post shared by Alexander McQueen (@alexandermcqueen) on Oct 2, 2017 at 10:44am PDT
Burton and her team toured Great Dixter – English gardens known for unconventional plantsmanship and bold experiments in different forms, colours and combinations – in the aim of finding the inspiration for the new collection.
To say the collection was a floral explosion would be an understatement: rosebud silk jacquard panels featured in a deconstructed gabardine trench coat; floral prints clashed with gingham checks in a pleated organza dress; a denim skirt was hemmed with antique floral handkerchief cotton – inspired by Burton’s private collection of vintage handkerchiefs. There were also hand-painted rosebuds trapped in the transparent heels of stomping boots.
The interplay of different textures is evident throughout the collection, as tailored suits feature houndstooth panels and leather jackets and trench coats are patched with quilted floral and striped mattress silks.
Behind all these mesmerising juxtapositions is meticulously thought-out tailoring and execution. Organza dresses feature soft tulle corsets while gingham and floral prints were pleated exactly to Burton’s liking.
A post shared by Alexander McQueen (@alexandermcqueen) on Oct 3, 2017 at 9:11am PDT
For the spring/summer 2018 collection, Burton paints a visual feast, with exuberant strokes of couture-level dresses that will be making waves on upcoming red carpets.
She’s also handsomely sketched out daywear that elevates the basics: think tailored pantsuits with kickback trousers, leather jackets, and knits accentuated with pictorial crystal brooches.
While many designers raced to churn out streetwear-inspired collections this season in a bid to lure millennials, Burton has stayed true to her vision and taken the time that’s needed.
In a somewhat speed-driven age, perhaps it is time to stop and smell the roses.