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Luxury

Luxury British brand Burberry not exclusive enough for its chief

STORYReuters
Marco Gobbetti aims to revitalise 161-year-old British company, best known for its classic trench coats and trademark check by focusing on top-end items
Marco Gobbetti aims to revitalise 161-year-old British company, best known for its classic trench coats and trademark check by focusing on top-end items
Fashion

Marco Gobbetti aims to revitalise 161-year-old British company, best known for its classic trench coats and trademark check by focusing on top-end items

A US$190 polo shirt might seem expensive to most shoppers, but for Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s new chief executive, it is too close to the fashion industry’s endangered mid-market for comfort.
So his strategy to revitalise the 161-year-old British brand is to distance it from the likes of Polo Ralph Lauren and move it firmly onto the ground staked out by Louis Vuitton and Gucci, which he says charge 50 per cent more for the same type of shirt.
Consumers prefer either luxury items or mass-market brands … the mid-market offering no longer has a place with these consumers
Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s new chief executive

Gobbetti, who was previously at French house Celine, says fashion is polarising between the mass market – home to Spain’s Inditex and Sweden’s H&M – and top-end luxury brands.

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“Consumers prefer either luxury items or mass-market brands, mixing them together to create a look,” he said on Thursday.

“The mid-market offering no longer has a place with these consumers.”

Burberry, one of the fashion industry’s most successful turnaround stories in the early 2000s, needs a new creative overhaul to help fire up growth again.

However, it’s a tough makeover to get right, bringing in change without alienating the fans of its classic trench coats and trademark check, and Gobbetti is searching for a new designer to replace long-time creative chief Christopher Bailey.

At Gucci, part of France’s Kering, a complete shift from the label’s sleek, sexy style to a rococo, colourful aesthetic under a new CEO-designer pairing over the past two years has helped the brand outperform all peers.

An iconic Burberry trench coat is displayed in a window of a Burberry store in New York City. Photo: AFP
An iconic Burberry trench coat is displayed in a window of a Burberry store in New York City. Photo: AFP
At Gucci, part of France’s Kering, a complete shift from the label’s sleek, sexy style to a rococo, colourful aesthetic under a new CEO-designer pairing over the past two years has helped the brand outperform all peers.
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