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Luxury

Meet Bertrand Guyon of Schiaparelli, who dressed Emily Blunt and Zhou Dongyu for the red carpet

STORYLeona Liu
Bertrand Guyon, design director of Schiaparelli
Bertrand Guyon, design director of Schiaparelli
Fashion

The French designer wants to retain the brand’s DNA while making haute couture more accessible

Haute couture, French for “high dressmaking”, sets the style trends for the upcoming year. The couturiers – garment-makers who are responsible for the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing – are revered for their work.

A look from Schiaparelli’s spring/summer 2019 collection, Bertrand Guyon’s first ready-to-wear designs for the couture house
A look from Schiaparelli’s spring/summer 2019 collection, Bertrand Guyon’s first ready-to-wear designs for the couture house
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So rigorous are French industry standards that the term haute couture itself is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. The association of Parisian couturiers founded in 1868, and known as the Syndicale de la Haute Couture, has enacted strict guidelines governing couturiers who work in ateliers (studios), which are expected to employ at least 15 full-time artisans and 20 technical staffs. Each garment is made-to-measure for a private client, and every look requires at least two fittings.

Each haute couture house must produce at least 25 designs every season for the biennale couture shows that usually take place in Paris in January and July.

The driving force behind couture is prestige and the power of the name and brand recognition of each fashion house. Despite this, it is thought that just 2,000 women customers worldwide aspire to such luxury.

The autumn 2018 edition saw 23 members showcasing a limited number of designs. The top houses included Chanel and Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld, Maison Margiela by John Galliano, Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Giambattista Valli’s eponymous label, and one of fashion’s oldest names – Schiaparelli by French designer Bertrand Guyon.

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