In a year when the #MeToo movement had actresses forgoing colour for black at many of the major awards ceremonies, it is somewhat surprising that this hue that came to represent solidarity should be missing in action on the catwalks.
On many runways, we saw a riot of colour, from scarlet and pink to orange and cobalt blue. But most prevalent of all was yellow – which was ubiquitous in every incarnation, from buttermilk to canary.
Chanel showed tweed suits and dresses in vibrant yellows. Escada had buttercup-coloured raincoats over yellow and pink dresses while Ulla Johnson had daffodil-yellow denim jumpsuits and floral-print yellow silk dresses. At Carolina Herrera, yellow and white was the colour palette of the day – canary jackets with floral appliqué and buttery A-line skirts that were instantly reminiscent of summer.
Ask women what practical attributes they want from their clothes and the first thing they say is pockets. Second? To have something fabulously hands-free – either a crossbody you can sling on and go, or a tote with straps long enough to comfortably put on your shoulder.
At New York Fashion Week, we saw plenty of both – particularly Tom Ford’s gorgeous multifunctional pieces, from shoulder bags to totes. Elsewhere, handbags went micro – from Chanel’s square woven handbag to the Louis Vuitton oval clutch; Oscar de la Renta’s tiny, Christmas bauble-sized clutches to tasselled numbers at 3.1 Phillip Lim that were just big enough to fit a phone and a lipstick.
Others include Chloé’s new C logo classic. But the prize for the smallest bag in existence must go to Brandon Maxwell, whose tiny diamante-covered clutch would barely fit a single key or folded bank note. Streamlined living, here we come.BOHO DAYS
Next summer, get ready to channel Sienna Miller circa 2003, when boho hit the pavements of London and the whole world clamoured to join in. Happily, its 2019 makeover is a little more refined.
It is a sign of how accustomed we have become to fringing, draping and slouchy boots that even an “uptown girl” label such as Carolina Herrera has been drawn into the hippie world of crochet and appliqué florals. Gucci has been going down this route for seasons by falling for everything floral. Elsewhere, we saw tie-dye and high-waisted denim at Proenza Schouler. But it was the man of the moment who really took the boho spotlight.
The glitziest event during New York Fashion Week was – without doubt – the Ralph Lauren 50th anniversary celebrations, which even Hillary Clinton attended. And while the politician stuck to her ubiquitous pantsuits, the brand went boho luxe on the catwalk: Navajo jackets with velvet dresses, and cowboy boots with a black-tie suit – the ultimate in high-low dressing.