‘Bigger than fashion?’ Why Taylor Swift will never be a style icon: the billionaire star has never collaborated with a luxury brand, skips fashion weeks and often goes high street
Most people with an algorithm handy or even a tenuous enjoyment of fashion have basked in the phenomenon that is the celebrity “fashion girlie”.
This growing cohort cements the end of celebrity dressing as simply the pursuit of hotness – as dictated by the male gaze, naturally – whether on the red carpet or en route to Cannes. According to fashion girlies, being a sartorial nerd – and pulling the looks off with fierce aplomb – is the most potent form of relevance in today’s Insta-glam age.
Last year, as the media furore around Swift’s personal life rendered her a full-time tabloid fixture, fans and indifferent social media users alike were served a paparazzi-fuelled stream of off-duty looks, including an oversized rugby shirt with riding boots, and a corset-style denim minidress paired with glittery silver heels.
Online reactions averaged lukewarm at best and provoked derision at worst, with Jenisse Minott writing for Fashion Magazine: “According to many Swifties and non-Swifties alike, she can write [songs titled] ‘Style’ and ‘Dress’, but she cannot style a dress. Or a skirt. Or a blouse. Or anything.”
Not everyone in the online community thinks Swift a poor dresser, but the consensus is clear – her absence from brand campaigns and front rows only reinforces the fact. “Do I like her style? Most of the time, yes. Is she a fashion icon? Unfortunately, no,” says Hanan Besovic, the effusive face and voice behind Instagram account @IDeserveCouture and a self-confessed Swiftie.
According to culture writer Emily Kirkpatrick, Swift’s status as a fashion anti-hero almost certainly functions as part of her meticulously constructed personal brand.
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“I think everything she does is a kind of act of branding, and fashion is a very logical extension of that,” says Kirkpatrick, noting that Swift’s fashion choices are not only a way for her to deliver so-called “Easter eggs” to her eagle-eyed fans (recent outings’ shades of green have stoked excitement around her Reputation re-recording). The looks also help her project a down-to-earth relatability echoing a bygone genre of celebrity – à la 90s paparazzi snaps – that represent more authentic examples of personal styling.
“Maybe it’s a nod back to that, to say, ‘I’m authentically myself,’” says Kirkpatrick. “But isn’t that an act of branding in and of itself?”
Affordable luxury accessories label Mansur Gavriel is just one brand benefiting from Swift sightings. Last June, the singer was spotted with the brand’s M Frame box bag (US$895) on several occasions; the brand has a strong relationship with Cassell Falconer, but was still pleasantly surprised when Swift stepped out with its shoulder bag.
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“We’ve definitely seen many new customers from her influence. We see sales spike when Taylor wears a style if it’s in stock, typically between 50 and 200 per cent,” says CEO Maria Borromeo. If a piece isn’t available, customers will wait. “We have over 2,000 sign-ups on out-of-stock styles she has worn,” Borromeo adds – the aforementioned bag is just one of them.
“She’s too powerful for these brands,” Besovic adds. “She relies on her music and her fans – she doesn’t need the stamp of approval from Anna Wintour and the fashion world because at this point, she’s bigger than fashion.”
- Unlike A-listers like Beyoncé, Zendaya and Harry Styles, Taylor Swift has never done fashion weeks, or luxury brand collaborations – and many style critics have been less than thrilled by her ‘authentic’ style choices
- Swift ‘cannot style a dress. Or a skirt. Or anything’, says Fashion Magazine – but at this point ‘she doesn’t need the stamp of approval from Anna Wintour’, defends @IDeserveCouture