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Archive fashion – which experts say is different to vintage – will no doubt continue to trend at May’s Met Gala, where the “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion” exhibition will pay homage to 400 years of fashion history and never-seen-before masterpieces.

“I would describe clothing from the 20th century as vintage while more recent designs of note are appropriately called archival,” explains Cameron Silver, founder of Los Angeles-based vintage couture boutique Decades, which boasts an ever-growing list of celebrity clients including Chloë Sevigny, Julia Roberts, Gwyneth Paltrow and Lady Gaga.

“Initially the vintage client and archival client were separate as more recent designer fashion didn’t have the same cache as it does today. The ‘rebranding’ of preloved, more recent luxury as archival has elevated the category,” he says.

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While vintage fashion has been spotted on the red carpet plenty of times, archival fashion’s popularity is being driven by a younger generation of celebrities who, like their TikTok counterparts – #archivefashion has been trending for months now – are looking to make a fresh statement.

For one it gives them the opportunity to wear something that showcases their fashion credibility and know-how without having to commit to a single brand.

“Fashion is so mainstream and everything has been done before to some degree. When your job is to break the internet more than the next celebrity, wearing something that not everyone else has, with a story, makes a big difference,” says Gill Linton, founder of online boutique Byronesque, which goes beyond vintage to offer reissues and contemporary and future vintage pieces by the likes of Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen.

“Custom-made doesn’t have a narrative that is as meaningful as a piece of fashion history, especially if it’s a piece that is very rare and hard to find,” she says.

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Indeed, one of the main signifiers of an archival piece is the fact that it has played a significant role in the designer’s history or oeuvre. As such, each piece tells a story and is often part of a bigger runway collection that is still as relevant and appealing today as it was when it first debuted. Good examples include Prada’s spring/summer 2008 fairy collection or McQueen’s now-iconic 2010 spring/summer collection, which featured 3D-printed reptile prints.

For many celebrities, choosing an archive piece can also make a more nuanced statement about sustainability. While shopping at resale sites may be considered environmentally friendly, they still tend to have a huge inventory where provenance or quality isn’t guaranteed. An archive piece meanwhile has been curated and specially selected because of its design pedigree.

“The environmental benefit of wearing something from a past season is profound and the addition of a cool factor makes sourcing archival fashion very attractive for a red-carpet attendee who wants to make a fashion statement and protect the planet,” says Silver.

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Interestingly more celebrities and their stylists are experimenting with their chosen archive looks by injecting their own unique style or personality. Cate Blanchett recently reworked a Giorgio Armani gown from 2018 into a chic jumpsuit which she wore to the AACTA awards. At the Golden Globes, Carey Mulligan decided to wear a modernised replica of a Schiaparelli dress that was originally designed in 1949.

There’s no doubt that archive fashion will become even more popular as more celebrities and private collectors continue to build their collections. Laverne Cox for example boasts a collection of over 500 Thierry Mugler pieces, while Zendaya has a penchant for vintage on the red carpet.

For those looking to start out, experts recommend investing in names such as Alexander McQueen, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy, Rick Owens and Raf Simons for Dior. Linton also points out Loewe and JW Anderson for future collectors.

“Look for documented pieces from the runway and avoid things that are from more commercial pre-collections,” says Silver.

Storing your archive pieces

Top tips from Barbara Yu Larsson, founder of specialist storage company PAKT.

1. Clean and repair items before storing them to preserve condition, deter pests and prevent stains and odours from setting in or oxidising over time.

2. Maintain a temperature of 19-21 degrees Celsius C and 50-60 per cent humidity (using fans for air flow) to protect pieces from mould.

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3. Store items in breathable garment bags and use structured hangers to maintain their shape. Avoid plastic boxes or covers which trap moisture and emit fumes that cause discolouration.

4. Keeping a digital inventory helps you keep track of everything and allows you to appreciate your collection whenever you like, wherever you are.