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L/Uniform’s Jeanne Signoles wants to make your bags functional again: how the French brand pioneered quiet luxury, with backpacks, satchels and wallets that prioritise practical chic – interview

Jeanne Signoles is the founder and creative director of L/Uniform, a French brand that makes luxury canvas bags. Photos: Handout

Designer Jeanne Signoles wants to change how you think about shopping. Not just luxury shopping – grocery shopping. Back to school shopping. Holiday shopping.

L’Uniform, a brand created by designer Jeanne Signoles, has a brand new pop-up at Lane Crawford
Whatever kind of shopping you have in mind, Signoles has created a bag for it, from the slimmest of wallets to the most expansive of satchels. Signoles is the founder of L/Uniform, possibly the world’s most understated luxury bag brand.

“A luxury bag without the luxury price,” Signoles says of her canvas-based designs, which were inspired by her own struggles trying to pack up the contents of a small car using a range of dysfunctional, disparate parcels and bags she had with her at the time.

Designer Jeanne Signoles was inspired to start L/Uniform after her own experience of trying to pack without a functional bag

Since when did buying and storing things get so laborious? Signoles says that most consumers probably don’t put practicality first any more when it comes to buying bags. When she started conceptualising L/Uniform, she wanted to make a bag that would “take care of everything for you”.

“Instead of thinking about logos, prints and flashy patterns on the bag’s outside, she continues, “the most important thing to me is what’s inside”.
Canvas bags are the French label L/Uniform’s core offering

Signoles will be the first to admit that, most of the time, practical bags aren’t very nice. But what makes L/Uniform’s designs stand out is Signoles’ conviction in the power and beauty of a simple bag. “For me, a bag is a bag,” she says. “The most important thing is to have a utilitarian bag, to help you have a comfortable day. To give you the opportunity to carry everything you want for your day. It’s not pretentious.”

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Signoles’ unwavering faith in her vision is the secret to her brand’s continued success over the years. Even as other brands in a competitive market have changed their tune time and time again, chasing trends and creating new designs at a near-breakneck pace, L/Uniform has stayed true to its original canvas bag, evolving on a slower but more steady and steadfast timeline from Paris, to Japan, and now Hong Kong.

L/Uniform’s satchel in natural canvas and white leather, priced at HK$8,750 (US$1,120) at Lane Crawford

“What is luxury?” Signoles asks, as more of a rhetorical question. “Luxury is quality,” she answers. “It’s good material. It takes time to do well.”

L/Uniform’s business model pays tribute to this philosophy. While the brand has been in business for nearly a decade, it’s gradually expanded its repertoire to just over 100 styles, a testament to Signoles’ dedication to quality control.

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Canvas might not be what consumers think of when they talk about luxury materials – most might cite leather or silk – but, as Signoles says, other brands are finally catching on.

This is where L/Uniform’s craftsmanship comes in. “My idea is to be a canvas specialist,” Signoles says. Many brands now, she says, make canvas bags, but their quality leaves much to be desired. “It’s only in cotton, not nylon and cotton.”

L/Uniform’s offerings have now expanded to over a hundred styles, including smaller handbags, toiletry bags and more

Signoles was well aware when she launched L/Uniform back in 2015 that getting consumers to embrace canvas bags would be an uphill battle, but knew from the beginning that the quality of her designs would turn the tide in her favour. The French designer oversees every detail of her operation, from the colour of the cotton used down to the finest qualities of her materials.

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“When I started L/Uniform, I was not convinced [I’d be able] to convince people,” Signoles says. “Because everybody used to wear leather.” But she knows her canvas bags, with their Swiss zips, are of excellent quality, and when products like these are available on the market, customers will eventually change their mentality and be convinced.

L/Uniform has come a long way from its beginnings in Paris in 2015, first launching in Japan and now Hong Kong at Lane Crawford

Signoles says her freedom as an independent designer, and full control over her brand’s output, is what has allowed her to continue pushing the idea of “canvas” – and L/Uniform – forward. Instead of opening everywhere, she wanted to find a good partner. Now, as she looks to expand in China and Hong Kong, her priority is to understand the expectations of local customers.

L/UNIFORM primarily uses leather for smaller accents, details or products, such as this large envelope in red priced at HK$2,850 at Lane Crawford

L/Uniform’s debut in the city at Lane Crawford has been a long time coming. “Most of the people told me, OK, [for] Hong Kong and China, you need to have a logo,” says Signoles, referring to the luxury brand practice of slapping logos over their products. In the end, she waited 10 years for this trend to fade. “[Timing] is super important.”

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One could say L/Uniform is a brand made for the moment, perfectly timed at the apex of two key trends in the fashion industry – quiet luxury and sustainability. For Signoles, the two go hand in hand. Her penchant for simplicity means she always orders exactly the materials she needs, and sticks to a smaller-scale production schedule.
L/Uniform’s miniature vanity case in natural canvas and tan leather epitomises the brand’s version of quiet luxury, priced at HK$14,450 at Lane Crawford

But for L/Uniform’s bags, quiet luxury also translates to a quiet confidence. Clearly influenced by her time in Japan, the minimalist aesthetics are tangible in her designs. Signoles believes there’s nothing boring about utilitarianism and uniformity – a nod towards the brand’s name. She compares the act of creating your own uniform to that of building your own identity.

A close-up of the personalisation services on offer at L/Uniform’s Lane Crawford pop-up

“I love uniforms. It’s super solid. It’s timeless,” says Signoles. The brand has introduced personalisation services to L/Uniform to show that uniformity and individuality aren’t necessarily mutually exclusive.

Not all of L’Uniform’s offerings are “quiet” and monochromatic, though. Take this all-in bag in navy canvas and neon pink trimming, priced at HK$2,650 at Lane Crawford

When it comes to showing off personal style, “the most important thing is to trust in yourself,” says Signoles. She makes a convincing case – after all, this is the woman who managed to build an empire out of humble canvas. Some people – and bags – just speak for themselves.

Fashion
  • L/Uniform is quietly revolutionising luxury bags by going back to the basics, with ambitions of beating out competitors to become the ultimate canvas specialists
  • With a line of 100 offerings from smaller handbags to toiletry bags, the French label opened first in Paris, then Japan, and now Hong Kong – where it just debuted a pop-up in Lane Crawford