Explainer / Why the Loewe Puzzle is both an ‘It’ bag and enduring classic: Beyoncé, Blackpink’s Jennie and Jennifer Lawrence all love the Spanish luxury brand’s creation – there’s even a Studio Ghibli version

Jan 3 , 2024

Loewe’s Puzzle bag is popular for both its unique look and versatile design. Photo: @loewe/Instagram

Emblematic handbags from luxury brands predate the term “It bag”, which we now associate with the season’s must-haves. Holy grail bags like Hermès’ Kelly and Birkin, and Chanel’s 2.55 are flagship designs that continue to be coveted today.

Blackpink’s Jennie was among the first to get Loewe and Studio Ghibli’s Puzzle bag decorated with anime characters from My Neighbour Totoro. Photo: @jennierubyjane/Instagram

These days, brands vie to produce new “It” bags, hoping to create a single accessory that can carry over for a few seasons and gain the favour of fashion commentators, celebrities, influencers and, ultimately, consumers.

Instead of competing with logos and monograms, Spanish fashion house Loewe, known for its high-quality leather goods, chose to grab attention with an unmistakable design highlighting the house’s roots in leather making.

Loewe’s Puzzle bag, launched in 2014, was created by Jonathan Anderson, the house’s creative director. The rectangular bag is “puzzled together” with several triangular leather panels, hence its name. With a top handle and a crossbody strap, the bag quickly gained popularity for both its unique look and versatility. Over the years, the Puzzle bag has evolved to include different versions of straps, including a version with a plastic chain top handle.

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Loewe’s Puzzle bag design lends itself to a variety of configurations. Photo: @loewe/Instagram

British actress Sienna Miller, 2000s “It” girl, was one of the bag’s earliest fans; she once stepped out with a suede turquoise version paired with a leopard-print coat. Beyoncé was spotted with a multi-tone pink piece courtside at a Golden State Warriors game.

The puzzle design concept brilliantly lends itself to various configurations. Different colours and leather combinations mean Loewe is able to refresh this flagship design year after year, following to the Pantone shade of the season.

The Puzzle Fold tote bag is also available in two-toned versions. Photo: @loewe/Instagram

The bag has also adapted to the recent micro bag trend. The smaller size can easily pair with looks from day to night, again adding to the its staying power as an evergreen accessory.

A variation of Loewe’s Puzzle bag. Photo: @siamparagonshopping/Instagram

Loewe also collaborated with Studio Ghibli to create a series of Puzzle bags painted with popular characters from the Japanese animated film My Neighbour Totoro. Blackpink’s Jennie was among the first to get her hands on a brown piece featuring the black dust bunny creatures in the film. The collection also features other characters, including the film’s chubby mystical namesake, Totoro.

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Loewe’s Puzzle Fold tote was inspired by an original Jonathan Anderson design. Photo: @loewe/Instagram

The house also brought this leather panel design concept to other silhouettes, extending the Puzzle range to include crossbody pouches and the Puzzle Fold tote this year. The bag was taken out of Anderson’s design archive and initially named the Origami Bag. Available in two sizes, the Puzzle Fold tote collapses into a flat square, naturally lending itself to become a versatile travel bag.

Taking advantage of the panel design, Loewe launched various iterations of the bag, with some featuring a mix of shades. The two-toned configuration of the tote brings a colour-blocking effect to the design.

Jennifer Lawrence pairs the Loewe Puzzle Fold tote with a variety of outfits. Photo: @fashion_celebs_critics/Instagram

Oscar-winning actress Jennifer Lawrence was recently spotted wearing the Puzzle Fold tote in olive green. Proving the bag’s versatility, she pairs it with everything from wide-legged trousers and pointed stilettos to leggings and T-shirts.

Fashion

The Puzzle bag, created by designer Jonathan Anderson in 2014, features several triangular leather panels and has evolved to include different versions
Beyoncé carried a multi-tone pink piece to a game, while Jennifer Lawrence pairs hers with everything from wide-legged trousers and stilettos to leggings and T-shirts