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Sydney Sweeney and the return of the little black dress: from Dior and Chanel’s classic LBDs to Princess Diana’s ‘revenge dress’ and Jennifer Aniston, the ultimate wardrobe staple stills slays

Return of the little black dress? From Dior and Chanel originals and Princess Diana’s ‘revenge dress’, to LBDs looks from Sydney Sweeney and Jennifer Aniston, the wardrobe staple continues to slay. Photo: Getty
It’s difficult to think of a piece of clothing more entwined with culture and fashion history than the little black dress (LBD). Whether worn by Princess Diana as an act of “revenge” and royal rule breaking in 1994, or Audrey Hepburn as she nibbled on a croissant in 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s, the LBD is known for making an impact. As fashion historian Valerie Steele notes in her book, The Black Dress, the garment is present throughout art and literature. In Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina, the doomed heroine was dressed in “a black, low-cut velvet gown”, while Edith Wharton’s Ellen Olenska, in The Age of Innocence, created a minor scandal by wearing a black gown to her coming-out ball.
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel is often, somewhat erroneously, credited with inventing the LBD – but she certainly popularised it in the 1920s.
Diana, Princess of Wales, in her famous-infamous “revenge dress” from Christina Stambolian, pictured in London in 1994. Photo: Getty Images

“Scheherazade is easy,” Chanel once said, rather sneeringly, of her pastel and poufy competition at the time. “A little black dress is difficult.”

In a 1926 issue of Vogue, a sketch of a long-sleeved sheath dress by Coco Chanel was published with the breathless edict that it would “become sort of a uniform for all women of taste”.
Audrey Hepburn in a still from the classic Hollywood film Breakfast at Tiffany’s, in which the actress was stunning in a black Givenchy dress. Photo: AP Photo/Christie’s
Elsa Schiaparelli, one of Chanel’s enemies, wrote in her autobiography, Shocking Life, that despite the surrealist creations her fashion house was known for, many of her clients and their husbands preferred “severe suits and plain black dresses”.

It’s a truism that black is always in style. The LBD was beloved by designers from Cristóbal Balenciaga to Christian Dior, both of whom believed black could be worn at any time. At the most recent Paris season, Miu Miu closed out the show with a run of knee-length, saucy yet sophisticated black dresses – one worn with a fur coat, others with elbow-length gloves and Mary-Jane shoes.

A little black dress from Miu Miu’s autumn-winter 2024 collection, shown at this year’s Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Handout

Does it not say much about the universal appeal of an LBD that you can wear one as much as a gamine 20-something flitting about a party, as you can as a grande dame at a charity lunch?

Sydney Sweeney proved this versatility (and the sexiness!) of the LBD while out and about in New York City this month, donning not one but three different LBDs in the space of 24 hours – including a leather dress from cult label Khaite, and a long-sleeved, V-neck Versace minidress with a silver zip running down the entire front.
Actor Sydney Sweeney poses backstage earlier this year. Photo: AP

The timeless, wear-anywhere appeal of an LBD is something that resonates with The Outnet style director Sinead Cutts.

“The LBD has been a wardrobe staple for many decades and will always be a chic yet effortless piece,” she says, adding: “The appeal of an LBD is the ease with which you can wear it. It’s a great investment piece for your wardrobe, as it’s a classic but versatile style that can be counted on for its simplicity. I have several in different styles to suit the occasion.”

A little black dress from Ganni, available at The Outnet. Photo: Handout
She says this versatility is reflected in the way that contemporary designers continue to reinvent the LBD. “Contemporary brands and designers like Ganni and Simone Rocha style theirs up with chunky flats and socks for a modern twist. A simple switch-up of accessories can update any LBD from classic to cool,” she adds.
Cutts – who says brands such as Magda Butrym and Aje are ideal for party LBDs, while she loves the likes of Helmut Lang and Victoria Beckham for more demure options – agrees that the LBD is forever entwined in culture and fashion history.
Simone Rocha little black dress, available at The Outnet. Photo: Handout
“Aside from the obvious Breakfast at Tiffany’s, and of course Princess Diana’s ‘revenge dress’, there are a few other iconic moments in culture that come to mind,” she says. “Jean Seberg’s bow-detail halter neck in 1958’s Bonjour Tristesse is LBD perfection, and a prime example of a classic and elegant style. But when it comes to one person who aces the LBD time and time again, it has to be Jennifer Aniston. Over the past 20 years, Aniston’s red-carpet appearances often feature an LBD. The late 90s, spaghetti-strap minidress with her middle-part hair pulled back and single-strap sandals is a timeless look if ever there was one.”

Anna Hoang, founder and designer of Australian label Anna Quan calls black “a flattering non-colour”.

Magda Butrym pre-autumn 2024 little black dress. Photo: Handout

“Black, as an absence of colour, suits everyone – whether your skin tone is warm or cool based. I think this is why it has endured,” she says.

She says that part of the LBD’s appeal is that it can be “continually reinvented through clever silhouette and cutting technique, textural choices, lace insets or interesting trims, fabric manipulation and finishes – there’s plenty of room to innovate”.

A little black dress from Victoria Beckham, available at The Outnet. Photo: Handout

Sarah Harris Gould and Lauren Tapper, co-founders of the elegantly feminine New Zealand brand Harris Tapper, say that evolving their take on the LBD makes sense to the brand’s design approach.

“For us, it’s a personal approach to what we feel we need in our own wardrobes, or are drawn to making,” says Harris Gould. “Often our lives echo the customer’s life – we want to make pieces that serve, rather than dictate what should be worn. This can mean updated silhouettes or new fabrications that give the wearer ease through the day.”

Jennifer Aniston at the Vanity Fair party following the 2017 Oscars, in Beverly Hills, California. Photo: AFP Photo

The Bea dress is the brand’s bestselling black dress. “A classic shape, skimming the body, it holds the body without hugging it. We’ve continued to recut this shape over and over again – it works for a professional life yet also weekend and evening wear,” says Tapper of the piece’s appeal.

As for why the LBD is particularly resonant right now, Harris Gould and Tapper believe the trend may have something to do with a renewed appreciation for consistency, or infallible chic.

Harris Tapper's Mikkel minidress. Photo: Handout

“Perhaps the recent return to a classic, proven shape is about the security it brings after the instability of the past four years. Maybe we’re all craving certainty,” Harris Gould muses.

Julia McCarthy, founder of elevated minimalist Australian brand Friends with Frank, thinks another element of the LBD’s appeal is that it’s an easy decision.

Friends with Frank’s Willa silk dress. Photo: Handout

I think in a world where we’re overwhelmed with choice, there is something refreshing about going back to basics,” she says. “People see value in investing in a piece that they will get maximum mileage out of, a piece that can take them across a multitude of occasions – so timeless that it can take pride of place in your wardrobe for many years.

“A well-cut, well-made black dress not only will never go out of style, but in a time when our attention span and wardrobe turnover seems higher than ever, it’s a style that’s harder to grow tired of,” she adds.

Built to slay? One of Sydney Sweeney’s three consecutive LBD looks. Photo: Getty

As for how to wear one? Really, as McCarthy notes, however and wherever you like.

“With the right styling, pieces in a modern wardrobe should work just as well worn casually as they do to a formal event,” she says.

Miu Miu autumn-winter 2024. Photo: Handout

“This is key to the place a modern LBD now has in your wardrobe. It’s no longer the piece you have saved for a special occasion, but is versatile enough to be brought into your weekly outfitting rotation,” she elaborates.

“A modern LBD is all about the confidence that a beautifully cut dress, made from a high-quality fabric in a fail-safe black shade, will give you.”

Fashion
  • Christian Dior, Coco Chanel and Cristóbal Balenciaga each had takes on the little black dress in the 50s – fast-forward to today and Miu Miu presented modern iterations at the most recent Paris Fashion Week
  • Audrey Hepburn and Princess Diana are LBD icons of the 20th century, Jennifer Aniston has rocked the look for decades, and Sydney Sweeney recently donned three LBDs in the space of 24 hours