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Why worn-out handbags are the ultimate status symbols, from vintage Gucci, to Dior and Hermès

STORYAnnie Brown
Jane Birkin’s original Hermès Birkin. Photo: Sotheby’s
Jane Birkin’s original Hermès Birkin. Photo: Sotheby’s
Fashion

Jane Birkin’s insouciance with her namesake Hermès bag started it all, and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen were often seen with bashed-about Birkins in the 2000s

Recently the sight of an editor friend’s vintage Tom Ford for Gucci Horsebit Clutch – in burgundy and looking like it had been swung about many a dance floor, cigarette burns and all – caused a bolt of unadulterated covetousness. It looked both chic and unbearably cool. Like Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen with their bashed-in Birkins in the mid-aughts, cool. Or Jane Birkin’s insouciance with her namesake bag, cool. Or really like any woman who slung a Chloé Paddington circa 2005 across the back of her chair at a restaurant with the right kind of boho-inflected insouciance.

In any case, in a win for anybody who has kept a treasured bag in less than mint – but definitely well-loved – condition a beaten-up bag has become the ultimate status symbol.

Jane Birkin with one of her much-travelled bags at her mother’s house in London, in 1996. Photo: Mike Daines/Shutterstock
Jane Birkin with one of her much-travelled bags at her mother’s house in London, in 1996. Photo: Mike Daines/Shutterstock
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For his much anticipated debut at Chanel, Matthieu Blazy sent 2.55 bags down the runway that were, per the show notes, “crashed, crushed and cherished”. He told reporters backstage that he wanted them to look “like they’ve been to a party in Pigalle”.

Just as archival outfits have become the ultimate red carpet look, so too have vintage handbags that have seen some life. Rihanna is no stranger to a worn-in bag – and archival flex – recently seen stepping out in New York with a single-strap bag from Gucci’s fall 1999 collection (one of a slew of Tom Ford-era pieces owned by the style icon).
Bella Hadid rocked a rare vintage Dior Gaucho Saddle bag at Paris Fashion Week, in September 2025. Photo: Getty Images
Bella Hadid rocked a rare vintage Dior Gaucho Saddle bag at Paris Fashion Week, in September 2025. Photo: Getty Images

Bella Hadid, meanwhile, was spied with a deeply patina-ed and slightly crumpled (and rare) Dior Gaucho Saddle bag slung across her arm at Paris Fashion Week last season. The bag was introduced by then creative director John Galliano for his spring/summer 2006 collection for the maison, with the bowling-style silhouette featuring a saddle-shaped flap.

In recently released paparazzi photos from the set of The Devil Wears Prada sequel, Anne Hathaway – returning to her role as Andy Sachs, one-time assistant to the formidable editor-in-chief Miranda Priestly (Meryl Streep) – was snapped carrying a scratched and slightly misshapen vintage Coach satchel. A sign perhaps that she may have moved up in the world, but that she’s remaining true to the person she always was. That is: principled and self-possessed enough to not need the latest season’s bag to show she has style.

The Olsen sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley showed contrasting taste in bags at the 2010 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards in New York. Photo: Getty Images
The Olsen sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley showed contrasting taste in bags at the 2010 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards in New York. Photo: Getty Images
Perhaps nobody was more in possession of characterful style – and shrugged-on chic – than Jane Birkin. It’s no coincidence then that the Birkin remains the ultimate reference when it comes to beaten-up luxury bags. She is the namesake for the Hermès Birkin after all, and she famously treated her own Birkins like trash, covering them in stickers, bag charms and scratches. Not that anybody minds: one of the actor and singer’s Birkins sold at auction in July for a record-breaking €8.6 million (US$10.11 million). Another sold more recently in Abu Dhabi for €2.45 million.
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