For readers not familiar with this beloved staple, the first thing to clear up is that the “cake” is not made from turnip; it is made from white radish, known to many by its Japanese name, daikon.

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The dish’s English name is a simple case of lost in translation, according to Lau Chi-Man, dim sum head chef of Michelin-starred Hong Kong restaurant Duddell’s. “Previously, it was rare to see white radish outside Asia, and the look of it is similar to turnip. People used that name for a long time before realising the mistake, but the name turnip cake stayed.”

But how it came to be associated with Lunar New Year is unclear.

Tse Sun Fuk, head dim sum chef at another Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant in Hong Kong, Ming Court, says: “The origin of turnip cake is divergent. Some say that many Cantonese in the Guangdong region were poor, and Chinese white radishes are cheap and grow best in cold weather. So it started to be commonly used to make Chinese cakes during Lunar New Year.”

Duddell’s makes its own turnip cake every year. “It is made with Chinese radish, Chinese cured pork sausage and pork belly, mushrooms, dried shrimp and conpoy. This is a classic recipe loved by many.”

Ming Court also makes its own, and in addition to radish, it contains Chinese sausage, cured meat, conpoy and abalone.

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The cake is first steamed and then typically cut into pieces and fried, creating a crusty exterior and soft interior.

While a Lunar New Year tradition, turnip cake is eaten all year round. “It is a common dim sum item in Cantonese restaurants,” adds Lau.

Nian gao

The portion of luck served with this cake, made from sticky rice, is an example of a homonym, which is common in the Chinese language. Here the words nian gao (sticky cake) sound similar to “year high” and this has come to symbolise a higher income, position and children (in terms of growth), with the overall promise of a great year ahead.

The Cantonese version of the cake is also often a golden red, which also represents good luck.

Eating the cake, typically on the first day of the Lunar New Year, has a history dating back more than 1,000 years, although Lau notes it can be eaten any day during the celebrations.

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Lau also prefers a classic recipe for those sold at Duddell’s. “It is made with rice flour, glutinous rice flour, cornflour, coconut juice and coconut sugar, topped with red date and olive kernel. The quality of coconut juice is the key to a delicious cake.”

Tse’s exact ingredients are a secret, but says the two key ones are coconut milk and glutinous rice powder. Some home-made versions can be adapted to include surprising twists with ingredients, such as chopped nuts and black or white sesame seeds to add an exciting flavour to the modern diner’s taste.

Nian gao is associated with numerous legends

It is said to have played a role in a battle in Ancient China which took place around 482BC. The story tells of the Wu Kingdom, located in Suzhou. The leader, Wu Yun (known as Zixu), secretly made sure that part of the barrier wall protecting against attack had been made from glutinous rice bricks. He hinted that in times of trouble citizens should dig under the wall. During one vicious attack after Zixu’s death, a soldier remembered the tale and sure enough, upon digging discovered the rice bricks, which saved the citizens from starvation.

Alternatively, the saved-from-starvation tale comes after the Wu Kingdom fell to the Yue Kingdom years later, which cut off the food supply. Wu’s words were remembered and the rice bricks discovered. The making and eating of the cakes is said to have become an annual New Year activity to honour Wu.

Nian gao is also believed to help keep the Kitchen God’s lips sealed from turning in a negative report on the family to the Jade Emperor just before the new year.

“This sticky sweet snack was believed to be an offering to the Kitchen God, with the aim that his mouth will be stuck together with the sticky cake, so that he can't badmouth the human family in front of the Jade Emperor,” explains Lau.

Tse is also familiar with the Kitchen God tale: “People offer nian gao to the Kitchen God to pray for good fortune for the coming year.”

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Another origin tale that Lau is familiar with involves a people-eating monster.

“Once upon a time there was a monster named Nian. It hunted animals normally, except in winter when they were mostly sheltering in caves. At this time it would turn to hunting people. A tribe named Gao would therefore prepare a lot of rice cake and put them out for the monster, which saved the people. The practice of making rice cakes stayed, and became a new year tradition.”

There are also variations on this tale, but all share the same ending – the rice cakes saved the people from being eaten by the monster Nian, and as a result, were made every year.

Tse adds another take: “It is considered good luck to eat it during the Lunar New Year period. Told by an old master, the myth of nian gao is that many years ago, a chef specially made it for his child to bless him to grow taller in the new year.”

No doubt, these and other legends helped secure the cake’s important role in Chinese culinary culture and, especially, Lunar New Year. Because of all the luck and the festive good vibes, nian gao is also a popular gift – so why not share the good fortune with friends and family this year?

Where are Singapore noodles from? How are century eggs made? Are French fries improperly named? And what’s the final verdict on where tikka masala was created? With the Origins series, STYLE delves into the often surprising beginnings of iconic dishes or foods, how they’ve evolved over time and the many ways they’re enjoyed today.

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