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Paris Fashion Week: Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2023 show brought a circus funfair to the Louvre, with HoYeon Jung on the runway, and Jennifer Connelly and Janet Jackson in the crowd

A model presents a creation for Louis Vuitton during the spring/summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 4. Photo: AFP

The funfair lights at Louis Vuitton shone as brightly as the starry front row for the vibrant and infectious spring collection from Nicolas Ghesquière that capped Paris Fashion Week.

Models present creations from the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE
A model presents a giant zip creation from the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE

Dramatic bursts from a tribal drum echoed across the storied cobbles of the Louvre, leading guests to a surreal world of circus mirrors, Las Vegas lights and myriad lattices of tent-like red latex – where clothes were blown up.

A model wears an intriguing take on the zip function from the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE
It was a circus-like set on the runway stage from the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE

If Nicolas Ghesquière raised excitement with the circus-like set that curved like a theatre in the round, the fun designs did not disappoint, at Tuesday’s closing extravaganza.

The designer allowed his inner child to run free with designs at Louis Vuitton during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris on October 4. Photo: AFP

This season, the 51-year-old Louis Vuitton designer let his childhood imagination run wild with the theme of blowing up.

Designs were inspired by a theme of “blowing up” for its spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE

Giant zips accompanied even bigger Monogram “hand”-bags, humongous bow collars, clown-like buttons and enormous unfurling leather sections that evoked the hit movie Honey I Shrunk The Kids.

Designs were presented in fun sizes by Louis Vuitton during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris on October 4. Photo: AFP

Beyond the obvious gimmicks, there were some accomplished looks in the colourful and youthful collection that was also a playful, contemporary take on regal dress.

Colourful palettes were also in abundance for the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE

Blown up Elizabethan collars – or were they lifebuoys? – were given a sporty revamp on loose, ruched gowns and black stomping boots. Elsewhere, the Renaissance collar silhouette travelled down the body playfully on another look at hip level.

A monogrammed bag for the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE
There was a spark of creative madness represented in the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE

There was method in the madness – the designs’ sheer vibrancy giving a coherence to the collection as a whole.

Squid Game actress HoYeon Jung modelling for the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE
Squid Game’s HoYeon Jung and Louis Vuitton ambassador also walked the runway.
A model walks in a whimsical and colourful curation for the spring/summer 2023 ready-to-wear collection by French designer Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton during the Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, France on October 4. Photo: EPA-EFE

Ghesquière perhaps went too far with a leather print series of blown-up zips, but stand out pieces like an embroidered multicoloured apron dress surely made up for it.

A garment made in leather by Louis Vuitton during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris on October 4. Photo: AFP
A colourful ensemble put together by Louis Vuitton during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris on October 4. Photo: AFP
Léa Seydoux, left, and Janet Jackson attend the Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 fashion collection presented on October 4, in Paris. Photo: AP
Pop icon Janet Jackson looked the model of calm as the cameras jostled around her inside the former royal palace’s oldest courtyard, the Cour Carre, posing for photographers amid the dazzling set lights, along with Léa Seydoux. Top Gun: Maverick’s Jennifer Connelly was also in attendance.
A model dons giant jewellery pieces by Louis Vuitton during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris on October 4. Photo: AFP
Jennifer Connelly attends the Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 fashion collection presented on October 4, in Paris. Photo: AP
Jennifer Connelly breezed through backstage. Fashion’s richest CEO, Bernard Arnault of LVMH, sat next to Princess Charlene of Monaco. House of the Dragon star Milly Alcock soaked up her new-found fame – a recent addition to the front-row crowd.
A model walks the runway of Louis Vuitton during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris on October 4. Photo: AFP

There were so many celebrities that some bewildered fashion journalists just sat down, beaten, with their VIP cheatsheet on their lap.

French designer Nicolas Ghesquière acknowledges the audience after the Louis Vuitton spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris on October 4. Photo: AFP
High-octane scenes like these are the norm at Louis Vuitton – which since Karl Lagerfeld’s death at Chanel has become the undisputed highlight of Paris ready-to-wear’s final day. It’s a glamorous bookend to the entire fashion season that travels through New York, London and Milan and always ends in the City of Light.
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  • Rounding out the fashion season, LV displayed a surrealist world full of childhood imagination at PFW’s closing day with Nicolas Ghesquière’s blockbuster SS23 unveil
  • A-list guests included Léa Seydoux and Monaco’s Princess Charlene – sitting next to LVMH’s Bernard Arnault as they all watched giant zips and Las Vegas lights