“Mushrooms have been used for centuries to boost immunity in the body as well as on the skin,” says David Yi, founder of Good Light, an inclusive beauty brand. “In today’s modern era, folks can benefit from mushroom extracts for anti-inflammatory skin barrier protection and hydration.”

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More than skin deep

Mushrooms are technically just the fruiting bodies of fungi, the bits we see sprouting from the soil or the sides of trees. Tens of thousands of species of fungi have so far been described by science, with millions more suspected to be out there. Unsurprisingly their effects on humans vary hugely.

“There is tremendous genetic diversity within the mushroom category, and different extracts excel at different things,” Michael Ahmad, senior director of global education at Herbivore, told Editorialist. “Some hydrate, some brighten and others soothe. It’s all about aligning with the right mushrooms to treat your core concerns.”

These potential abilities to boost hydration, decrease itchiness and reduce inflammation make mushrooms sound like a godsend for those dealing with symptoms of psoriasis and eczema.

Furthermore, mushrooms are classified as adaptogens – herbal substances that may work at a molecular level to stabilise cell function. This feature is said to make them capable of soothing stress and its side effects, regulating hormonal imbalances and again relieving inflammation.

Make a meal of it

If you are looking to add mushrooms to your skincare routine, you should first determine what kind will help your skin the most. Some wellness brands like to specialise in specific species, while others experiment with a variety.

Popular species to know

Chaga

This type of mushroom is full of melanin and has more antioxidants than many so-called superfoods. The combination is said to shield the skin from the sun and other effects of weather, which can help reduce redness.

Shiitake

This mushroom can be an excellent ally for those searching for a brightening formula or decreasing hyperpigmentation. Packed with kojic acid, it can degrade melanin, helping to hide scars and dark spots, even out skin tone and brighten up complexion.

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Snow

This fungi is said to hold up to 500 times its weight in water, making it an uber-hydrating ingredient. “We use snow mushroom, which is also in our Moon Glow Milky Toning Lotion, and is a beautiful humectant,” Good Light’s Yi says. “It binds moisture to the skin, improves elasticity, and also calms angry skin. It’s a wonder ingredient that allows you to get the benefits of an active like hyaluronic acid.”

Cordyceps

High in antioxidants, when used in topical formulas, cordyceps fungi may improve skin elasticity, rehydrate, boost collagen production and calm inflammation and irritation caused by eczema. Moreover, they may protect the skin against environmental damage by fighting oxidative stress.

Fun(gi) products to try

Herbivore Pink Cloud Creamy Jelly Cleanser

This multitasking face wash gets rid of make-up, debris and dead skin cells, and plumps up your complexion. It features tremella, or snow mushroom for deep hydration that stays locked in, and rose hydrosol, squalene and coconut water for gentle cleansing.

Youth to the People Adaptogen Deep Moisturising Cream

This nourishing, hydrating moisturiser features a pro-grade peptide complex combined with squalene and fermented reishi mushroom, which together tackle dryness, uneven texture, premature ageing, redness and fine lines.

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Good Light Order of the Eclipse Hyaluronic Cream

A powerful yet gentle cream that uses meshima mushrooms, gold moss, hyaluronic acid and squalene to soak your skin in a nourishing formula that will bring back radiance while boosting skin barrier function, reducing inflammation and rehydrating the skin.

Herbar Face Oil

Considered a skincare do-it-all, this oil is formulated with mushroom extracts that help your skin gain strength and adapt to its daily imbalances to boost radiance, relieve inflammation and protect itself against the elements.

And what to watch for …

Squalene and squalane are two similar substances widely used in skincare products. They were previously largely obtained from the livers of sharks, many species of which are now endangered due to overfishing. Before you buy a skincare product, check its squalene/squalane comes from a plant/synthetic source.