Corsica is the fourth largest island in the Mediterranean, but it feels more compact than Sicily and Sardinia, hemmed in by its wild peaks, limestone cliffs and verdant forests. Although it is known for its beaches, a chain of mountains dominates almost two thirds of the island, making it a haven for nature lovers and hikers, many of whom come to walk the 180-kilometre GR20, one of Europe’s most challenging long-distance hikes.

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The island is divided by a diagonal line of peaks into the less developed north and east (Haute-Corse) and the more polished south and west (Corse-du-Sud). Most visitors to the former fly into the former capital of Bastia, an ancient town known for its medieval churches and historic port. Though it’s worth a stopover, we choose not to linger but to head a little north to the rocky peninsula of Cap Corse, known for its unspoilt and often dramatic stretches of coastline.

Our base for exploring the north is the picturesque seaside village of Saint-Florent, right at the base of Cap Corse. It’s tiny – you can walk from one end to the other in about 10 minutes – but it’s nevertheless a lively port lined with cafes, shops and restaurants. It also provides easy access to the many jewels of the island’s north, including the “sauvage” Désert des Agriates with its jagged coastline of capes and sandy beaches.

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Over the next few days, we spend hours each morning traversing the Sentier des Douaniers (the custom officers’ path), a breathtaking coastal trail, where we discover little coves and the white sands and aquamarine pools of places like Lotto and Saleccio, which can only be accessed on foot or by boat.

In the afternoons we head inland to discover the Nebbio region, home to tiny villages stranded between the sea and mountains. The hilltop town of Oletta is striking thanks to its centuries-old palazzos, one of which has been transformed into Aethos, a contemporary boutique hotel dotted with art from the likes of Anish Kapoor and Daniel Arsham. We also visit Murato, where we marvel at the San Michele de Murato, a 12th century Roman church known for its eye-catching black and white exterior. It stands alone at the top of a grassy knoll, its beauty simple yet pure, much like the countryside that surrounds it.

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It’s almost impossible not to notice the herds of sheep and goats in the valleys. Their distinctive tasting milk is used to make countless varieties of local cheeses including fleur du Maquis which is caked with dry herbs, and brocciu, which is often compared to ricotta. Locals prefer to eat their cheese unadulterated but it’s too tempting not to pair it with a freshly baked baguette and Bordier butter from the local gourmet épicerie.

We second guess ourselves when it’s time to leave the sanctuary of the Nebbio valley and head down south, which is far more developed and extremely popular with tourists. Somewhat begrudgingly we make the 2.5-hour car journey down to almost the southernmost tip of Corsica, to the jewel in Corsica’s crown, the dramatic fortress town of Bonifacio.

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It is here where Corsica’s two cultures overlap. Road signs are written in Italian and French. Every historical landmark we visit has a place in the island’s story. You hear as much Italian as you do French – and then there’s Corsu, a local dialect closely related to Tuscan. Menus feature French favourites like escargots and profiteroles, alongside buffalo mozzarella and tiramisu, as well as indigenous Corsican specialities. Like the waves lapping on the shore, each culture sends out ripples that intersect, overlay and reinforce, all part of a broader advance.

As it turns out, the touristy south is as appealing as the north but for different reasons. Porte Vecchio is polished and refined. But unlike Saint-Tropez, which it is often compared to, there are no signs of Eurotrash, flashy beach clubs or luxury brand boutiques. Instead you find a charming hilltop town filled with families enjoying lunch at a local cafe or sheep’s cheese gelato from the local ice cream shop.

We learn that beach hopping is a way of life in the south. Yes, they can be more crowded, but the azure waters of Palombaggia – often touted as the island’s best beach – and the crescent-shaped Baie de Rondinara are still sights to behold. It’s also easy to escape the crowds at the Lavezzi Islands, a protected reserve with pristine waters and abundant marine life. We take pleasure in discovering simple beachside restaurants that have been run by families of fishermen for generations, where they serve the freshest catch of the day including lobster, which is almost as abundant as the cheese.

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Corsica it seems is neither French or Italian but a place that celebrates the best of both worlds, with a little of its own magic thrown in.

What to Pack

Zimmermann top (US$310).

Posse trousers (US$299).

Chloé sandals (US$880).

Chanel bag (US$5,100).