Tesoro’s inspiration for designing bizarre shoes started as a form of curiosity, which led to him become very passionate about footwear. He decided to explore other possibilities.

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“You can either be a fashion hero when you create something visually beautiful [to be] be commercially appealing, or [you can] stir people’s curiosity or even cause such disturbance by making cold-hearted designs,” he said. “It’s just fun for me.”

Success didn’t happen for Tesoro overnight. He attended two different universities to learn more about his craft. He began as a fine arts student at the College of Fine Arts, University of the Philippines. People there described his works as being more fashion than avant-garde because of his use of fabric as the medium and how he used the human silhouette as its frame. He also played with deconstructing clothing.

He then went on to study fashion design at the Fashion Institute of the Philippines to learn about clothing technology. “[I wanted to] learn how to construct before deconstructing. I think it was the right thing to do,” he says. “As part of it, we were asked to create a graduation collection, and that’s when I started creating my own shoes for this collection, making my theme more cohesive.”

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He soon realised how much he valued the visual narrative of his collection; he wouldn’t miss a single detail in order to make exactly what he had envisioned.

His creativity made him a valued participant at the Philippines Fashion Week for seven seasons. “After that, I visited Central Saint Martins in London where I took courses in jewellery design and learnt new approaches to fashion design,” he says.

Gateway to his inspiring elements

Whatever he creates – be it a shoe design, clothing or visual arts – they’re somehow all related to his childhood. “Well, it is nature from where all my fixations crop up, especially those rare and extraordinary plants, fungi, odd micro-organisms [and] mysterious animals. I’m a big fan of psychology as well; observing people’s behaviour including my dreams. And serendipitous things, [such as] eureka moments from staring at something randomly and then suddenly you get to imagine things after blankly staring at it,” Kermit says.

Different cultures also influence the way he develops his shoe designs. “It’s inevitable to be impacted by them. Some of my recent references came from subcultures and underground communities. But I’m also careful because I don't want to misinterpret or bastardise things and cause profanity,” he says.

Tesoro likes to describe most of his works as a by-product of his dark tendencies, translated into a disturbing configuration. That’s why he prefers his brand to be seen as a hub where the deviants living underground are welcome at any time. “I genuinely believe my brand is a representation of people who live inside an unrepresentative bracket in society,” he says.

Talking about the ethos and philosophy of his brand, he explains: “There is no agitation without provocation. And I don’t mind critics or bad comments at all. If it’s a praise, that’s a bonus, if it’s a vile reaction, at least you were able to move someone’s emotion or mood to even react to it.”

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Using different types of materials

Tesoro chooses material based on what his designs should look like, depending on the feasibility factor and the available resources needed to fit the overall idea. “Some of my materials range from using resins to human bones to ocean plastics and glasses. I’m hell-bent on trying new materials and discovering things. I’m willing to learn new disciplines.”

He insists on maintaining sustainability and says it’s possible to merge creativity with resourcefulness. “I also believe that using unconventional yet eco-friendly materials would never, ever compromise design, quality and the message of an artist’s work in pursuit of environmental sustainability,” he says.

Tesoro’s shoes appeal to a certain type of woman

It takes a special type of woman to both wear and admire his shoes. As Tesoro puts it, “You know, it’s sort of a mutual relationship where we gravitate towards each other. Once they feel totally connected to the ethos of my brand, they’re more likely to inquire about my designed pieces and purchase them.”

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Celebrities in the Philippines enthusiastically wear Tesoro’s shoes because they’re supportive of his creative direction. However, things turned around for him when the pop diva Lady Gaga showed interest in his work. “Lady Gaga wearing my designed pieces was a huge validation of my art. For me, the most important thing about collaborating, or having someone wearing or using my pieces, is that as long as he or she understands my vision and we’re on the same page, that would be enough to make me smile,” he says.

He also collaborated with his fellow artist Leeroy New to design a black rubber top and shorts for one of Lady Gaga’s music videos, Marry the Night. 

“I gifted her one more creation of mine, which was a jewelled armour piece. She was quite happy with it,” he says.

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Although celebrity endorsement does play an important role in bringing much-needed recognition to his brand, Tesoro says such attention should be handled warily. “The power of celebrity endorsement is a big tool in bringing mileage. But knowing which celebrity to closely work with is something I would seriously think about. You have to know who you want to be associated with, and which celebrity you think would be the best to represent or curate your works,” he says.

His vision as a shoe designer

Asked about his latest collection and plans for the brand in the years ahead, he says: “I don’t want to expose anything regarding the new collection at the moment. Let it be a secret. I just don’t want to jinx it. I’m a perpetual student and as I learn new things, I like merging all these things together, making a hybrid of references. Almost like a conceptual chimera in the form of shoes!”

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As is evident from his designs, Tesoro takes delight in his work. He finds the experience restorative, especially when he gets to vent his inner thoughts and demonstrate ideas influenced by his creative demons. “I don't want to sound selfish, but I just don't want to comply with the norms of a certain social structure. As a result, I get to regain my sanity by making all these ideas come to fruition. That’s the kind of personal satisfaction I’m rooting for,” he says.

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