Chanel, Piaget, Bulgari and other high jewellery designers create pearls of beauty – but would you pay US$5.7 million for a strand?
Pearls are basking in glory as a new generation of consumers discover their subtle allure. In the old days, when they were created only by chance, a search of thousands of oysters would turn up a natural pearl, making it an important financial asset.
However, the past 30 years has seen the major development of cultured pearls – created by a mollusc but with the help of human intervention. Shell beads are placed inside an oyster, which is returned to the water, where layers of nacre cover the “irritant”, forming a pearl.
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“The only way to determine whether a pearl is natural or cultured is by getting a certificate,” says Noora Jamsheer, CEO of DANAT, the Bahrain Institute for Pearls and Gemstones. “Pearls are not transparent, but lab equipment can reveal the internal structure to determine if it is cultured by man or if it was formed naturally. This is important in protecting consumer rights.”
It’s no wonder the rarity of natural pearls continues to command significant prices.
“The rarest thing about natural pearls is the way they are formed. It’s incredible an animal can create something so beautiful and unique. The most sought after type is the natural pearl, with a perfectly rounded shape and a mirror-like lustre,” says Albert Boghossian, CEO of Geneva jeweller Boghossian.
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The limited formation of natural pearls and soaring prices at auction houses are proof of their high asset value. In May, at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels Auction, a sautoir of 110 saltwater natural pearls, estimated at 2.5 million Swiss francs (US$2.5 million) to 3.5 million Swiss francs, went on to fetch 5.723 million Swiss francs.
At these prices, natural pearls are not for the faint-hearted; here’s where cultured pearls take over.
“South Sea pearls are considered to be the most valuable of all types of [cultured] pearls,” says Michael
Akoya pearls are often simply referred to as “cultured pearls”, as they were the first variety cultured in Japan. Formed by saltwater oysters, they come in a range of white and creamy tones, and in sizes starting from 3mm to 9.5mm, much smaller than South Sea pearls and perfect for designs requiring smaller, high-quality pearls.
Tahitian pearls come in grey to black shades, as seen in Bulgari’s High Jewellery Fiorever necklace featuring 11 Tahitian grey cultured pearls, pink tourmalines, bead and buff top rubies with fancy step diamonds and round brilliant diamonds.
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Mikimoto combines various pearls and gems to create its new high jewellery line, from the Akoya cultured pearl and diamond necklace to the Cascading necklace with white and golden South Sea cultured pearls, to drop diamond earrings with a golden and white South Sea pearl combined with blue sapphires.
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Integrated with other coloured gemstones, the delicate beauty of pearls speaks volumes, especially in the Silk Road Collection necklace by Chopard, where 2,447ct of cultured pearls are paired together with jadeites, opals, pink sapphires and diamonds.
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Pearls come alive in Chopard’s Animal World Collection necklace and earrings crafted with cultured pearls, briolette-cut diamonds, quartz and round brilliant diamonds.
Boghossian creates a pair of earrings, each with a button-shaped natural saltwater Pinctada and Pteria pearl respectively, enhanced by pear-shaped rose-cut diamonds, and small pearls. Being extremely rare, natural pearls command high prices. Little wonder then these earrings are accompanied by two certificates, from SSEF and GGTL labs.
Boucheron brings the beauty of pearls to light across various collections, such as the Feuilles de Laurier, the Banquise ring, the Noeud necklace and ring.
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In the Dentelle Organza pearl ring by Dior, a certified 24.49ct round-shaped pearl is at the centre. The latest Golden Oasis collection by Piaget uses carefully selected Akoya white pearls in the Irresistible Attraction earrings and necklace.
The Broderie Byzantine necklace and bracelet by Chanel are made with white cultured pearls and diamonds. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Fontanella long necklace and Lucia earrings with detachable pendants all use pearls to display a unique aesthetic.
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Cultured pearls are being used by luxury brands to create gorgeous earrings, necklaces and other pieces, and one strand just fetched US$5.7 million at auction