The past few years have welcomed a breakout for Malaysian fashion. Designers such as Khoon Hooi, Alia Bastamam and Carven Ong made fashion insiders do a double take with their costumes for Crazy Rich Asians , the hit 2018 movie based on Kevin Kwan’s book of the same name. A year later, Khoon Hooi enjoyed a presence on the Hollywood scene, which led to him dressing actress Karen Pittman at this year’s Golden Globe Awards, as well as A-listers such as Katy Perry. Beyond these designers, the country’s fashion scene isn’t lacking in other noteworthy talents, each of whom has a narrative that toes the frequently blurry line between the compelling and unconventional, and the methodically stylish. The designers who made Shanghai into a global fashion hub With the former, 2016 LVMH Prize semi-finalist Moto Guo, his business partner Jay Ang and co-creative director Kinder Eng, who make up Motoguo, venture onto the wilder, gender-fluid side of the fashion spectrum. For spring/summer 2020, the label is still deliberately off-kilter, and according to Ang, designs for the person who “doesn’t shy away from staying true to themselves”. Someone who appreciates the thoughts and ideas injected into a design would also enjoy their work, he adds. Why floral high jewellery by Chinese designers is blooming In their latest showing at Shanghai Fashion Week, Motoguo continues to riff on the unconventional. The looks are a mix of techno-hippie androgynous models in shift dresses, pencil shirts, tailored jackets and elaborately cute leggings. “To best express ourselves, we have been experimenting with different ways to approach our ideas,” Ang says. “There were seasons where we started with fabrication sourcing or experimenting with fabric manipulation; at other times, we could create a storyline for the collection.” Meet Minju Kim, Netflix’s Next In Fashion’s winner He says Motoguo’s quirky attributes set it apart from other labels. “This stems from our ability to keep an open mind and be spontaneous in our creative process,” he explains. Designer Afiq M. travels via a different route, one that is big on chic separates, tropical weather-friendly outer wear like trenches, robes and cropped jackets along with slinky satins and ostrich feathers for glamour-powered evenings. Leopard and reptile prints are highlighted, as are form-flattering silhouettes that some might consider ideal for a beach safari. Afiq M.’s outfits are often a perfect fit for Malaysia and Southeast Asia’s frequently predatory social scenes with their usual penchants for the dramatic. (In essence, uniforms for crazy rich Asians.) According to Afiq M., the direction trends are heading is towards ready-to-wear. “It’s exciting to see support from local customers for local products and designers,” he says. The logic is simple: his customer base is looking for ranges that are a step up from generic high street brands – and produced with local sizes in mind – yet embody the flair and sophistication a killer outfit invariably does. By relating my culture to the brand, there will be more depth and sophistication in my future creations Brian Khoo “I’d like to think any woman can take a piece from my collection and incorporate it in her wardrobe,” Afiq M. declares, adding that with his latest collection, “it’s all about moving towards easy-to-wear and versatile pieces”. Also with a ready-to-wear approach, Malaysian-Chinese designer Brian Khoo takes a deep dive into his cultural roots with his latest qipao-inspired collection. This features a series of unconventionally reinterpreted qipaos. Khoo says this is something he has always wanted to do. Growing up seeing people around him wearing this timeless garment has strongly influenced his creative eye. “By relating my culture to the brand, there will be more depth and sophistication in my future creations,” Khoo says. Why Filipino designers will be the ones to watch in the 2020s With his latest range of funky qipaos in unexpected colour codes, Khoo’s designs are all about highlighting the body’s natural curves. With the help of precise tailoring and flattering cuts, he aims to create silhouettes that are strong yet at the same time sensual. Khoo’s latest collection is a riot of tangerine, magenta, cream and crimson, as well as zebra prints in yellow, orange and purple combinations. Khoo says that he starts each collection once he is able to dissect a mood for it. This is followed by discerning a colour palette, and then by imagery research to configure a story for the ideas he has. Then there’s Joe Chia, who together with his brand’s co-founder Melissa Ding, excels in edgy deconstructed designs juxtaposed with elements recalling the way of life in Chia’s Malaysian hometown. In their latest spring/summer 20 collection shown in Paris, Chia goes back to his roots, drawing inspiration from his home in the North of Malaysia, near the border with Thailand. The collection portrays the daily lives of the people, and the humble things and events that surround them. This includes chores like drying sarongs by the wooden houses they live in. With this collection, Chia hopes to see in the designs the aspirations of the “future man”. He does this by tapping into “the silhouettes of our ancestors, combined with the styles of today”. How red carpet fashion designer Zac Posen lost his label Chia’s collection is by no means rustic or too “out there” in look or feel. He blends “the rawness of living” with cuts and drapes that are decidedly of the moment. Known for his streetwear, he blends his impressions and memories of the locale with updated tailoring and materials in shades of neutrals such as cream, grey and black. “We are inspired by the everyday man, how he lives, what he sees and how he transitions,” Ding says. “You will find in our work glimpses of our surroundings in the silhouettes, functionality and handwork details.” Ding, who has worked alongside Chia in collaborations with Reebok, Casio G-Shock, Uniqlo and Levi’s, adds, “We’ve always believed in bringing tradition into the present and crafting history into the contemporary.” This is probably the most fitting summary of current Malaysian fashion. Want more stories like this? Sign up here . Follow STYLE on Facebook , Instagram , YouTube and Twitter . Help us understand what you are interested in so that we can improve SCMP and provide a better experience for you. We would like to invite you to take this five-minute survey on how you engage with SCMP and the news.