Hollywood and Katy Perry fell for Malaysian fashion designers’ edgy unconventionality – why the rest of the world will be next

May 15 , 2020

Designer Moto Guo ventures onto the wilder, gender-fluid side of the fashion spectrum, with designs for those who do not shy away from staying true to themselves. Photo: Motoguo

Gender-fluid, techno-hippie and glamour-powered – Joe Chia, Brian Khoo, Afiq M. and Moto Guo are among the hip Malaysian designers bringing tradition into the present and crafting history into the contemporary

The past few years have welcomed a breakout for Malaysian fashion. Designers such as Khoon Hooi, Alia Bastamam and Carven Ong made fashion insiders do a double take with their costumes for Crazy Rich Asians, the hit 2018 movie based on Kevin Kwan’s book of the same name. A year later, Khoon Hooi enjoyed a presence on the Hollywood scene, which led to him dressing actress Karen Pittman at this year’s Golden Globe Awards, as well as A-listers such as Katy Perry.

Beyond these designers, the country’s fashion scene isn’t lacking in other noteworthy talents, each of whom has a narrative that toes the frequently blurry line between the compelling and unconventional, and the methodically stylish.

Joe Chia excels in edgy deconstructed designs juxtaposed with elements that recall the way of life in his hometown. Photo: Joe Chia

With the former, 2016 LVMH Prize semi-finalist Moto Guo, his business partner Jay Ang and co-creative director Kinder Eng, who make up Motoguo, venture onto the wilder, gender-fluid side of the fashion spectrum. For spring/summer 2020, the label is still deliberately off-kilter, and according to Ang, designs for the person who “doesn’t shy away from staying true to themselves”. Someone who appreciates the thoughts and ideas injected into a design would also enjoy their work, he adds.

Brian Khoo’s latest range of funky qipaos, in unexpected colour codes, are all about highlighting the body’s natural curves. With precise tailoring and flattering cuts, he aims to create silhouettes that are strong yet sensual. Photo: Brian Khoo

In their latest showing at Shanghai Fashion Week, Motoguo continues to riff on the unconventional. The looks are a mix of techno-hippie androgynous models in shift dresses, pencil shirts, tailored jackets and elaborately cute leggings.

“To best express ourselves, we have been experimenting with different ways to approach our ideas,” Ang says. “There were seasons where we started with fabrication sourcing or experimenting with fabric manipulation; at other times, we could create a storyline for the collection.”

Brian Khoo says that relating his culture to the brand adds depth and sophistication to his future creations. Photo: Brian Khoo

He says Motoguo’s quirky attributes set it apart from other labels. “This stems from our ability to keep an open mind and be spontaneous in our creative process,” he explains.

Designer Afiq M. travels via a different route, one that is big on chic separates, tropical weather-friendly outer wear like trenches, robes and cropped jackets along with slinky satins and ostrich feathers for glamour-powered evenings. Leopard and reptile prints are highlighted, as are form-flattering silhouettes that some might consider ideal for a beach safari. Afiq M.’s outfits are often a perfect fit for Malaysia and Southeast Asia’s frequently predatory social scenes with their usual penchants for the dramatic. (In essence, uniforms for crazy rich Asians.)