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Paris Fashion Week: Hermès channels Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau in surrealist womenswear spring/summer show – what were the key takeaways from this year’s part-digital runways?

STORYAssociated Press
A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua
A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua
Fashion

Fewer celebs and masked front rows at the largely digital take of one of fashion’s biggest calendar events – where home-grown Hermès used one its live runway show to play with depth, using projections and reflections of Greco-Roman sculpture to evoke Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau

Hermès headlined Saturday’s (October 3) instalment of Paris Fashion Week with a cinematic, surrealist runway, but the lack of celebrities and patchy drizzle put a slight dampener on the usually high-octane event.

A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua
A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua
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Like Milan before it, Paris is undertaking an unusual fashion season for spring/summer 2021. Thanks to the coronavirus pandemic, the nine-day calendar is flitting between 16 ready-to-wear runway collections with masked guests in seated rows, 20 in-person presentations and several dozen completely digital shows streamed online with promotional videos.
A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua
A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua

Prints of Greco-Roman goddess sculptures adorned columns at the Hermès show, with mirrors reflecting parts of their marble forms. The creative presentation referenced surrealists Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau, evoking a sense of magic, mystery and depth.

A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua
A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua
A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua
A model presents a creation by Hermès during the women’s spring/summer 2021 ready-to-wear fashion show at the 2020 Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Xinhua

Depth was indeed the key theme for minimalist designer Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, but the magic and mystery were sometimes missing in the clothes. Shimmering metallic mesh came as an outer layer over pared-down undergarments in dark and muted hues.

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