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STYLE Edit: How Swiss luxury brand Breitling has shaped the history of watches – from outer space to the deep blue sea

Breitling have played a major role in the evolution of the chronograph, designing a series of classics, many of which continue to evolve to this day, such as the Chronomat Automatic 36. Photo: Breitling

The modern chronograph as we know it today owes its evolution to a handful of players in the luxury watch industry. While the earliest models, mostly found in pocket watches, can be traced back to the late 19th century, it was only in the 1930s that the stopwatch feature got a real push in terms of design and functionality.

Charlize Theron, Brad Pitt and Adam Driver are the faces of the Breitling Cinema Squad. Photo: Breitling
One of the first brands to introduce wrist chronographs with a separate push piece, Breitling kicked off the age of modern chronographs in 1934 with a wristwatch featuring two push buttons – one for start and stop, and the other for the reset function. This marked the golden age of chronographs from Breitling – the brand with the winged “B” logo – that started supplying dedicated models for aviation to Britain’s Royal Air Force in 1941.

Chronomat Automatic 36 with a copper-coloured dial, diamond hour markers and diamond-set bezel. Photo: Breitling

With several ingenious patents to their credit, Breitling soon established itself as the go-to brand for accurate, sturdy and efficient timepieces – not just for the military but also for sports enthusiasts looking for utmost precision. The Breitling Chronomat, launched in 1941, was one versatile model that attracted aficionados from all walks of life. The first wristwatch with a circular slide rule function, the Chronomat made calculations on the go super easy. You could use it to convert speeds or distances from one unit of measurement to another, and for other complex calculations too.

The first Breitling Navitimer from 1952. Photo: PPR/Breitling

The Chronomat laid the foundation for the launch of Breitling’s most popular pilot’s watch to date – the Navitimer. A real tool watch, the Navitimer was equipped with a circular slide rule on the rotating bezel to help pilots calculate flight time, distance, air speed, fuel consumption and more.

In 1962, the Navitimer made its first journey into space with astronaut Scott Carpenter, for whom they designed a special model with a 24-hour dial to be worn during his mission aboard the Aurora 7 spacecraft. Over the years, the brand has released several iterations of this attractive timepiece with in-house movements and other upgrades, but the most distinctive feature of the watch continues to be its circular slide rule.

Oceans of inspiration

From the high skies to the deep seas, Breitling expanded its reach to make tool watches for professional and military divers in the late 1950s. Launched to mark Willy Breitling’s silver jubilee as the head of the company, the SuperOcean was another milestone in the brand’s journey.

Chronomat B01 42 Bentley with green dial and black contrasting chronograph counters. Photo: Breitling

Over the last four decades, Breitling has bolstered its reach with a plethora of offerings across genres. From wooing auto enthusiasts with a partnership with Bentley, to launching special editions dedicated to ocean conservation, the brand is not just a watchmaker for aviators any more.

Under the dynamic leadership of Georges Kern, Breitling has recently reorganised its annual collections into four categories – Air, Land, Sea and Professional – and is all out to play “cool and relevant” with its special “squads” campaigns. For each of its squads – Cinema, Explorer, Surfer, Aviation and Triathlon, the brand has selected individuals who are among the best and most passionate about what they do.

The new Chronomat for Women comes in 36mm and 32mm sizes. Photo: Breitling

In October, the brand launched its first Chronomat model for women, promoted by the powerhouse squad trio of actresses Charlize Theron and Yao Chen, and ballet dancer Misty Copeland. Available in stainless steel, bicolour, or 18-carat red gold, the new collection offers 12 sleek variations in two sizes. While the Chronomat 32 has a quartz movement and comes in seven versions, the Chronomat Automatic 36 is equipped with a Calibre 10 mechanism and is available in beautiful lacquered di­al options of white, midnight blue, pale green or copper.

This year’s new Chronomat collection for men is inspired by the hugely popular model from the 1980s, recognised for its prominent rider tabs on the bezel, the bullet crown and the Rouleaux bracelet. Powered by Calibre 01, the new models are available in a range of combinations – from dial colours to Bentley plaques, two-tone gold and steel models, to the Frecce Tricolori limited edition. For those looking for an option in rubber strap, there is the Chronomat B01 42 with a striking 18-carat red gold case and an anthracite dial with contrasting chronograph counters in black. What’s your pick?

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Style Edit

Chronographs like the Navitimer, Chronomat and SuperOcean show decades of refinement, showcased today in endorsements from stars like Yao Chen, Daniel Wu and Misty Copeland