How is Tod’s new creative director evolving the brand for millennials and Gen Z? After stints at Gucci and Valentino, Walter Chiapponi showed off his skills at Milan Fashion Week – interview

Mar 31 , 2021

What does new Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi have in store? Photo: Tod’s

After acquiring Roger Vivier and sneaker label Hogan, is Tod’s set to become a luxury conglomerate like LVMH or Kering?

Tapped by Diego Della Valle, the grandson of Tod’s founder, Chiapponi combines craftsmanship with fresh collaborations with Alber Elbaz and Mame Kurogouchi

Growing out of a small Italian family-owned shoemaking workshop, Tod’s has expanded to become one of the most recognisable luxury goods companies in the world. The enterprise, that reported a revenue of €916 million (US$1 billion) in 2019 and €940 million (US$1.1 billion) in 2018, is led by chairman and majority shareholder Diego Della Valle, the founder’s grandson.

In recent years, the Italian businessman has acquired other luxury houses including French shoe brand Roger Vivier and trainer label Hogan, hinting at the intention to become a luxury conglomerate like LVMH and Kering. For the growing mother ship, the group’s namesake label Tod’s – a brand known for its ultimate comfort, finest materials and made-in-Italy craftsmanship – is still front and centre, contributing over half of revenue.

Tod’s spring/summer 2021 women’s collection. Photo: Tod’s

In 2019, following the exit of its womenswear and menswear creative directors, Diego tapped Walter Chiapponi as the first creative director to oversee both lines. The fashion veteran, formerly at Gucci and Valentino, is determined to bring a new Tod’s lifestyle to life.

Lifestyle to me is about day-to-day time, and my idea is to build an entire perfect wardrobe, fluid but also very contemporary

Walter Chiapponi, Tod’s creative director

“Lifestyle to me is about day-to-day time, and my idea is to build an entire perfect wardrobe, fluid but also very contemporary for every kind of woman,” says Chiapponi. “A woman has many identities and it’s really fascinating for me; I keep trying to explore all these kinds of identities, from the more sensual one to the more masculine one.”

His women and men’s spring/summer 2021 combined collection, dubbed The Song was a multisensory experience. The stay-at-home style video featured over a dozen models, moving about the rooms of Milan’s Villa Necchi Campiglio backed by a melody that starts as a simple instrumental and builds into a full-fledged song as a voice and other instruments are added.

The collection conveys relaxation and nonchalance. Models are dressed in blousons, suede and denim; safari jackets are paired with wide silhouettes of flared pants and long skirts; all are dyed with a refreshing summer palette mixed with lilac, pink, yellow, camel and the house’s signature brown hues. Men were mostly outfitted with four-pocket jackets, shorts and polo shirts.

The craftsmanship behind Tod’s spring/summer 2021 collection. Photo: Tod’s