Demi-fine jewellery for a new generation: how Cartier, Graff and Boucheron are creating casual, cool versions of classic collections
- Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra collection, worn by Kate Middleton and Grace Kelly, is referenced in the new Lucky Spring pieces
- Cartier’s Panthère range, which features a dressed-down take of its iconic panther motif, could be the maison’s next demi-fine breakout star
Wearing demi-fine jewellery for a bit of lustre in one’s daily life is a trend that has gained traction recently, and some houses have been coming up with ways to give classic designs a makeover. From Van Cleef & Arpels to Tiffany & Co., these pieces are now reaching a new generation.
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This season, Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled Lucky Spring, a collection that plays on the symbolism of the Alhambra range. The plum blossom, lily of the valley and the ladybird take the place of the four-leaf clover emblem, which first made an appearance at Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1920s.
Designed in pink gold, the floral motifs are crafted in mother-of-pearl, while carnelian and onyx bring the ladybird to life. The bracelets, earrings clips and necklaces feature anywhere from one ladybird (wings either closed or unfurled) to a mix of 15 motifs in a single piece.
The pear-shaped diamond, an elegant and feminine cut, evokes images of Chaumet’s famed tiaras, once favoured by French empress Joséphine, the first wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, and the French house takes inspiration from the silhouette that made the Joséphine d’Aigrettes collection famous, giving it a light, contemporary touch. The big pear-shaped stones are gone, and brilliant cut diamonds and pear-cut aquamarines can be found in the latest Joséphine Ronde d’Aigrettes iteration. The rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings in white or rose gold can be worn on their own or in multiples.
Boucheron’s interpretation of the snake inspired a collection that first found its way to the house in 1968. Today, the Serpent Bohème continues to influence its fine jewellery creations. True to the Serpent Bohème range, Boucheron paints the collection with the vibrant green hues of malachite.