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Paris Fashion Week: Rick Owens’ dramatic spring/summer 2023 menswear show had everything from fire and neon to bare chests and a leather made from Brazilian fish scales

A model presents a creation during the Rick Owens menswear spring/summer 2023 show, as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 23. Photo: AFP
Under a blazing sun in the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, US designer Rick Owens put on a typically arresting display.
A model dons a sheer, hot pink shroud during the Rick Owens menswear spring/summer 2023 show, as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 23. Photo: AFP
Neon hues clashed to stunning effect at Rick Owens’ menswear spring/summer 2023 show, as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 23. Photo: AFP

It featured three giant spheres being set on fire, hoisted up by a crane and then dropped into the vast pool in the art centre’s fountain.

Rick Owens’ menswear spring/summer 2023 show took place in the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, as part of Paris Fashion Week, on June 23. Photo: AFP
A metallic, futuristic look with billowing pants at Rick Owens’ menswear spring/summer 2023 show, as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 23. Photo: AFP

As for the clothes, there were the trademark exaggerated shoulders and grungy glamour, but with some lighter touches in the form of transparent and billowing fabrics.

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A sheer white tunic is layered over a white shirt and dark hued pants at Rick Owens’ menswear spring/summer 2023 show, as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 23. Photo: AFP

He described it as a metaphor for a world “disturbed by war and constant online stone throwing” in the show notes.

Rick Owens’ signature grunge style was on show at the brand’s menswear spring/summer 2023 show, as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 23. Photo: AFP
Cut-outs, exaggerated shoulders and other quirky features were on show at Rick Owens’ menswear spring/summer 2023 show, as part of Paris Fashion Week, in Paris, on June 23. Photo: AFP
Some of the pieces used new sustainable materials that have become popular with designers as they try to counter the industry’s atrocious environmental record.
A bared chest and semi-transparent pants feature in this look, which was part of the Rick Owens men’s spring/summer 2023 collection presented in Paris, France, on June 23. Photo: AP Photo

One used a leather made from the discarded scales of the giant pirarucu fish in the Brazilian Amazon.

Fashion designer Rick Owens walks on the stage after presenting his men’s spring/summer 2023 collection, in Paris, France, on June 23. Photo: AP Photo

“[It’s] a skin I use over and over,” he said in the notes. “Fished as a food source by indigenous communities in the Amazon forest, the skins are then sold as a waste product generating income for them.”

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  • The American designer showed off his usual grungy, glamorous style via semi-transparent, billowing looks featuring cut-outs and shimmering metallic colours
  • Shown at the Palais de Tokyo, the collection also employed sustainable materials in a bid to counteract the fashion industry’s dismal environmental record