Paris Fashion Week: Givenchy’s spring/summer 2023 collection showcased Matthew Williams’ grunge galore, with Gigi and Bella Hadid on the runway – but VIPs like Olivia Rodrigo got caught in the rain

Oct 7 , 2022

Models wear creations for the Givenchy ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 fashion collection presented on October 2, at Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Invision/AP

Rain would normally be a good thing in the green thickets of the Jardin des Plantes, the gardens in central Paris. For Givenchy’s al fresco runway presented at Paris Fashion Week, it was another story.

US model Gigi Hadid presents a creation for Givenchy during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 2. Photo: AFP

US model Bella Hadid presents a creation for Givenchy during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 2. Photo: AFP

VIP guests including Olivia Rodrigo survived torrential downpours only thanks to helpers clutching transparent umbrellas. But the show had to go on. For Matthew Williams, a designer who has garnered lukewarm reviews of late, the October 2 reveal of this collection was a little like crunch time.

A model presents a translucent creation for Givenchy during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 2. Photo: AFP

For the spring ahead, the US designer moved his street aesthetic in a dressier direction – likely trying to bring himself to the safer ground of the age-old house’s traditional aesthetic. He had some success.

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A model wears an all-black creation for the Givenchy ready-to-wear spring/summer 2023 fashion collection presented on October 2, in Paris. Photo: Invision/AP

A model slings a black strappy bag over the shoulder for Givenchy during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 2. Photo: AFP

An oversized tweed black bolero cut a creatively surreal silhouette atop a pencil-thin mini dress, twinned with Matrix-style shades. Elsewhere, features such as ruching on a silken top, or draping on a fluid skirt, resembled thick organic sinews or human ribs.

A model wears grungy, revealing wear for Givenchy during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 2. Photo: AFP

A slightly translucent ensemble worn by a model for Givenchy during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 2. Photo: AFP

A black dress is presented for Givenchy during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 2. Photo: AFP

The LBD was taken to new highs on the runway for Givenchy during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show. as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 2. Photo: AFP

This felt like a good, gently transgressive, direction for the house immortalised by Audrey Hepburn’s LBD.

A pink and grey ensemble worn by a model for Givenchy during the spring-summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Womenswear Fashion Week, in Paris, on October 2. Photo: AFP

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However, many of Williams’ design elements still felt out of place on the haute Paris runway, such as 90s low-slung cargo shorts that seemed unflattering, clashing with the black silken ruffled cuffs that dangled down.

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Paris Fashion Week

Givenchy presented its SS23 show at Paris’ Jardin des Plantes, though guests had to watch through torrential rain and umbrellas – but the show must go on
Models wore denim with strappy bras and revamped versions of Audrey Hepburn’s LBD; however, many designs felt unflattering and outdated like the 90s cargo shorts