Gucci’s getting a facelift: newly appointed creative director Sabato De Sarno, who worked at Valentino, is tasked with reviving the Kering group’s brand after the departure of Alessandro Michele

Feb 1 , 2023

Gucci’s newly appointed creative director Sabato De Sarno used to work at Valentino. Photos: Reuters, Matteo Canestraro

Kering’s brand Gucci has a new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, who worked closely with chief designer Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino – he’s expected to show his first collection in September

While Alessandro Michele was a favourite of Harry Styles and Lady Gaga with his gender-fluid designs, experts say that De Sarno’s track record suggests a ‘less eccentric aesthetic’

Sabato De Sarno, newly appointed by Kering to reinvigorate its prized Gucci brand, needs to spark heat with a new direction, analysts say – a delicate task, given the emphasis executives have also put on the label’s timeless appeal.

Sabato De Sarno, newly appointed by French luxury goods group Kering as the creative director of its brand Gucci. Photo: Reuters

De Sarno, a senior fashion designer from Valentino, is tasked as creative director with reviving the fortunes of the brand that accounted for two-thirds of Kering’s profits in 2021.

Prioritising classics is not enough for Gucci

Gucci has been reviving its classics like handbags from the past. Photo: Gucci

An emphasis on classics was a priority outlined by executives at the company’s investor presentation last year, and Gucci has recently revived its bamboo-handle model handbag from 1947, as well as its over-the-shoulder Jackie bag from 1961.

Gucci’s Year of the Rabbit campaign. Photo: Gucci

But analysts say De Sarno will also have to generate buzz with hot new styles – a strategy that has traditionally served the brand well, compared to the path taken by some rivals that focus more strongly on signature classics, especially handbags.

“The future of Gucci is not to become another [Louis] Vuitton, Chanel or Hermès, but to nurture its fashion content to drive customers back to the brand,” said Antoine Belge, analyst with Exane BNP Paribas.

In a rush to look for replacement

Designer Alessandro Michele acknowledges the applause of the public during Gucci Cosmogonie at Castel Del Monte in May 2022, in Andria, Italy. Photo: Getty Images

Following the abrupt departure of Alessandro Michele in November, the group had been under pressure to quickly appoint someone to the top creative job.

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