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Why Met Gala 2023’s Karl Lagerfeld theme is causing an uproar: before his death, Chanel’s late creative director made controversial remarks on #MeToo, plus-sized models, migrants and same-sex marriage

German designer Karl Lagerfeld appears at the end of his spring/summer haute couture fashion show for French fashion house Chanel in Paris, France, in 2009. Photo: Reuters
Karl Lagerfeld, the subject of this year’s Met Gala, transformed Chanel from frumpy to modern. He revolutionised the merger of hip-hop culture and high fashion. He dressed and befriended celebrities and revolutionised once-staid runway shows into masterful, theatrical displays.

He was also a self-proclaimed “big mouth”, publicly sounding off with his fatphobia. He spoke against gay men who want to adopt children, migrants, sexual assault survivors, the #MeToo movement and “ugly” people, without apology.

And he left behind receipts – his own contentious words.

Karl Lagerfeld in 2012. Photo: Getty Images

Lagerfeld died in 2019 after dominating the fashion universe into his 80s. Come May 1, his legacy will be on display at the starry fundraising party and its companion exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. Likely not on display, however, will be his polemical tendencies.

“He offended people right and left, making as much of an art out of the cutting aside as the perfectly cut double-face gown,” The New York Times wrote soon after Lagerfeld’s death.

“He judged,” continued the publication, “and knew he would be judged himself, but he didn’t care. Rather, he embraced it.”

Karl Lagerfeld (left) and French luxury goods group LVMH chief executive Bernard Arnault pose inside the new Palazzo Fendi in central Rome, in 2005. Photo: AFP

The choice of Lagerfeld for fashion’s biggest night is not without critics, though gala visionary and close friend Anna Wintour is clearly not among them. An emailed request for her comment on this side of Lagerfeld went unreturned.

When 400 or so celebrities and elite from fashion, tech, politics, music, social media, film, TV and sports ascend the Met’s Grand Staircase for the gala, Jameela Jamil won’t be there.

The actor and activist was a rare public figure to condemn the theme, taking to Instagram to acknowledge his fashion genius but denounce his “distinctly hateful” remarks, often toward women.

 

“Why is this who we celebrate when there are so many amazing designers out there who aren’t bigoted white men? What happened to everyone’s principles and ‘advocacy’? You don’t get to stand for justice in these areas, and then attend the celebration of someone who revelled in his own public disdain for marginalised people,” Jamil wrote.

In 2020, a group of internet friends decided to democratise the A-list, invitation-only gala with a Twitter companion that’s open to creators who submit digital fashion in line with the real thing’s annual theme. But don’t look for the High Fashion Twitter Met Gala this year.

“As we approach the first Monday of May, the HF Twitter Met Gala team would like to announce that we will not be celebrating this year’s Met Gala as our values don’t align with the selection of Karl Lagerfeld as the theme,” the coordinators tweeted.

Called the “living soul of fashion” by Wintour, Lagerfeld and his gifts were outsized. So were his words.

Karl Lagerfeld on the #MeToo movement

Fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld waving at the end of Chanel’s autumn/winter 2012-2013 women’s ready-to-wear show in Paris, France, in March 2021. Photo: Xinhua

In the international fashion magazine Numéro in 2018, Lagerfeld said he was “fed up” with the effort to reveal sexual harassment, assault, misconduct and rape.

“What shocks me most in all of this are the starlets who have taken 20 years to remember what happened. Not to mention the fact there are no prosecution witnesses. That said, I cannot stand Mr. Weinstein. I had a problem with him at Amfar,” he said, referring to disgraced Hollywood mogul Harvey Weinstein and a gala held during the Cannes Film Festival in support of the fight against Aids.

On models

German designer Karl Lagerfeld (at the front, second from right) leads models as they appear on the catwalk at the end of the autumn/winter 2006-2007 ready-to-wear Chanel collection in Paris, France, in 2006. Photo: Reuters

“If you don’t want your pants pulled about, don’t become a model! Join a nunnery, there’ll always be a place for you in the convent. They’re recruiting even!” he told Numéro in the same interview, when asked about accusations against stylist and former Interview creative director Karl Templer.

Ashley Graham walks the runway for Prabal Gurung during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Gallery I at Spring Studios in New York City, in February 2018. Photo: AFP

To German news magazine Focus in 2009, Lagerfeld declared of plus-size models: “No one wants to see curvy women.”

In 2010, however, to Vice, when asked if he loved both the emaciated and voluptuous in fashion, Lagerfeld said: “Yes, totally.”

Lagerfeld’s “fatphobia”

Karl Lagerfeld, Kate Moss, Carine Lagerfeld and Riccardo Tisci at a black tie party at the Shangri-La Hotel during Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Handout

The man who co-authored a diet book after losing 42kg (92 pounds) in 13 months was vocally critical throughout his career of women larger than size zero or two. That includes his defence of designers exclusively hiring rail-thin runway models.

Asked in the same 2009 Focus interview about German women’s magazine Brigitte declaring it would only publish photographs of “real women” as opposed to professional models, Lagerfeld went on: “You’ve got fat mothers with their bags of chips sitting in front of the television and saying that thin models are ugly. The world of beautiful clothing is about ‘dreams and illusions’.”

Princess Caroline of Hanover, Karl Lagerfeld and Charlotte Casiraghi attend the Rose Ball 2017 Secession Viennoise to benefit The Princess Grace Foundation at Sporting Monte-Carlo in March 2017, in Monte-Carlo, Monaco. Photo: Getty Images

According to the book The World According to Karl, a collection of Lagerfeld’s own words, he once said: “I think that for both women and men, fashion is the healthiest motivation for losing weight.”

On “ugly” and Andy Warhol

Pop artist Andy Warhol smiles in New York, in 1976. Photo: AP
“I shouldn’t say this, but physically he was quite repulsive,” Lagerfeld told Vice of Warhol in 2010.

In the same interview, as he discussed his penchant for wearing dark glasses, he described a German journalist who once interviewed him as “some horrible, ugly woman”.

On Angela Merkel and migrants

German designer Karl Lagerfeld reacts as a guest editor at the Paris headquarters of the global free newspaper network Metro, in February 2012. Photo: Reuters

In 2017, the Hamburg-born Lagerfeld sniped at Angela Merkel, then the German chancellor, for opening her country’s borders to migrants during the Syrian refugee crisis in Europe two years prior.

“One cannot – even if there are decades between them – kill millions of Jews so you can bring millions of their worst enemies in their place,” he told French talk show Salut les Terriens! on Canal 8.

In some English translations, he offered this anecdote: “I know someone in Germany who took a young Syrian and after four days said: ‘The greatest thing Germany invented was the Holocaust.’”

Then German Chancellor Angela Merkel (second from left) and other political figures arrive for a press conference at the Chancellery in Berlin, Germany, in 2012. Photo: EPA

However, others reported the comment this way: “I know someone in Germany who took in a young Syrian who spoke a little English. After four days, do you know what he said to the [German] lady? ‘Germany’s best invention is the Holocaust.’”

Either way, the words prompted hundreds of complaints to Canal 8.

Same-sex marriage

Models present creations by German designer Karl Lagerfeld for French fashion house Chanel during the haute couture spring/summer 2013 collection shows in Paris, France, in January 2013. Photo: Xinhua
Lagerfeld sent two brides in identical wedding dresses down the runway for the finale of his spring 2013 Chanel haute couture show in Paris, telling The Guardian it was a show of support for the French same-sex marriage law.

But in the 2010 Vice interview, he spoke against same-sex marriage, particularly as it pertains to two men.

German designer Karl Lagerfeld looks at US model Lindsey Wixson at the end of his Chanel haute couture autumn/winter 2012-13 collection show in 2012, in Paris. Photo: AFP

“In the 60s, they all said we had the right to the difference. And now, suddenly, they want a bourgeois life,” Lagerfeld said. “For me it’s difficult to imagine – one of the papas at work and the other at home with the baby. How would that be, for the baby? I don’t know. I see more lesbians married with babies than I see boys married with babies. And I also believe more in the relationship between mother and child than in that between father and child.”

In 2013, while supporting same-sex marriage, Lagerfeld said he was “less keen” on same-sex couples being allowed to adopt.

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Fashion
  • On May 1, celebrities and A-listers will gather for the biggest fashion event of the year, the Met Gala – but many aren’t happy with the 2023 theme, which pays tribute to the late Karl Lagerfeld
  • While the late German designer is widely praised for his work in fashion, he was also criticised for being a ‘big mouth’ speaking out against migrants, sexual assault survivors and ‘ugly’ people