“Today, Parmigiani is all about Tonda,” Friedman explains, “and it makes sense – now clients understand the brand. It is appealing, it is a full collection, and the road ahead has a clear vision and strategy, which is reassuring for clients, retailers and distributors.”

Pascal Ravessoud, vice-president of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which promotes watchmaking culture, agrees: “Parmigiani really nailed it, it has really made an echo in the market. Now people and collectors are talking about Parmigiani much more than before – and it is also at the forefront of sales, there are now long waiting lines for many Tonda PF models.”

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Focusing attention

“Our attention span is decreasing because of social media,” Ravessoud declares. “Therefore, too many different collections blur the message. But with one precise line, the brand has more chance to stand out, and clients can keep the products in mind.”

At Watches and Wonders, A. Lange & Söhne took the single concept further than any other brand. They presented one single watch in a limited edition of 100 pieces: the Odysseus chronograph in steel with an eye-catching red chronograph second-hand made of anodised aluminium. As per usual from the German brand, the steel case houses an exquisite movement with 516 components, most of them hand finished.

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“To present just one watch is great from a PR perspective,” Ravessoud explains. “It is a very edgy approach, even courageous. It was probably sold out after the first day of the fair.”

Speaking of chronographs, Tag Heuer is focusing on the Carrera, a chronograph model that in 2023 celebrates its 60th anniversary with a new movement, and a two-part dial with the tachymeter on the curved perimeter, all covered by a heavily domed crystal that the brand dubs a “glassbox” design.

“A celebration like ours requires more than a watch, it also deserves an epic campaign,” says Tag Heuer CEO Frédéric Arnault at the launch, before presenting a Hollywood action teaser titled “The Chase for Carrera” starring Ryan Gosling and Vanessa Bayer.

However, marketing is nothing if you don’t have the product to back it up. “We witnessed a lot of back-to-basics at Watches and Wonders,” adds Ravessoud, “with reinterpretations of iconic lines that have stood the test of time. The force of an iconic product really positions a brand. It is differentiating from the competition and stands out in an effective way.”

Timelessly on-trend

In 2023, Panerai focuses on what is arguably its most iconic collection: the Radiomir, with a telltale conical crown and sandwich dial with glowing numerals. Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar Platinumtech Experience also links the collection with several of the latest trends, including platinum cases, bordeaux dials and brand-specific alloys.

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Tudor went a similar path with the Black Bay 54, a black-dialled 37mm diving watch on a steel bracelet. Tudor’s meteoric rise can arguably be attributed single-handedly to the Black Bay collection’s success after its relaunch in 2012. Indeed, Tudor’s new Black Bays at the fair were among the most discussed, though Tudor had brought new editions of the Pelagos and Royal to bear as well.

However, even Rolex seem to be streamlining in places as the models they had discontinued were as much a topic of discussion as their new models, with the much-loved cult classic Milgauss engineer watch chief among the victims as the brand continues to innovate with their main collections.

“Rolex surprised me with this,” said Ravessoud. “But if I summarise the rest of Watches and Wonders in one word, it would be consolidation. To have one strong message is always better if you have a strong product line.”