Watches and Wonders 2023: Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier on why Anya Taylor-Joy and Nicholas Hoult are the perfect ambassadors, and why it’s important for the brand not to be intimidating
When Catherine Rénier joined watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre as CEO in 2018 from jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels, she felt that the watchmaking world was a bit intimidating. The luxury industry veteran set out to change that obsolete attitude at the storied Swiss maison.
Founded in 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the most prestigious watchmakers, known for iconic pieces such as its signature Reverso, and for being the company behind some of the world’s most complex movements and one-of-a-kind creations such as Atmos clocks.
As the head of a house that has been around for 190 years, Rénier is well aware that the average luxury lover can be easily put off by the aura surrounding the watch world, which can come across as cliquey and not welcoming to newcomers.
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Rénier, however, doesn’t want to break with the past and to shun “the history and patrimony of Jaeger-LeCoultre”, which she says is what brought her to the house in the first place. On the contrary, she has been shining a spotlight on the legacy of craftsmanship and innovation through partnerships with artists and designers, immersive exhibitions, savoir faire workshops and by opening the doors of the manufacture in Switzerland to the public.
“I found that there were a lot of things to tell with a louder voice and this is what I’ve been doing over the last five years,” says Rénier, who before moving to Switzerland spent a decade in Hong Kong.
The Reverso, an elegant timepiece with its unmistakable rectangular case that can be turned over to protect the dial, was first created in 1931 for polo players so that they could stop the glass from breaking during games. “You buy something that’s recognisable and has a history and a strong message,” says Rénier. “Iconic watches from houses like Jaeger-LeCoultre resonate well with the younger generation. We see the Reverso on the wrist of young people for all of these reasons.”
The timepiece was front and centre at Watches and Wonders, where the house unveiled new iterations of the original design.
“That’s how you remain relevant in your time: you respect the past and get inspiration and you bring what people expect, and for the Reverso it’s the simplicity and beauty of the original model,” says Rénier. “It’s about reinventing it and adding little details: you don’t change the case or the spirit but you bring this contemporary touch to stay relevant to your time.”
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“It’s always about the meaning and the message, not just the image and them being beautiful, but the connection with our ambassadors and how they convey the message for the maison,” says Rénier. “It’s very important for our products to be worn. We don’t want to be seen as too removed from the real world so when you take a timepiece, even a complication, and put it on a wrist and the public sees it, it helps convey the message because it comes to life.”
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As Rénier raves about this and other anecdotes, her passion is palpable. “I love the product – that’s my passion. I love how we express ourselves through the product and the history behind it,” she says. “I’m very much about craftsmanship and I love to protect what we’ve done and bring a new twist to what we do. I don’t want a rupture and to completely forget the past and start a new story but I want continuity and to bring this touch of sophistication and elegance that Jaeger-LeCoultre is about.”
As for what she misses about her old stomping ground – the rarefied world of jewellery – it’s the faster pace. “The development of watchmaking is very long and I’m not very patient,” she says. “I speak about our products with such passion because we have to wait so long and when they finally come out I’m like, ‘Finally it’s here!’”
- It’s been 5 years since Catherine Rénier took the reins at Jaeger-LeCoultre; since then she’s broadened the brand’s appeal through partnerships with artists, immersive exhibitions and more
- The house was founded in 1833 but remains relevant thanks to pieces like the Reverso – originally created for polo players and now worn by the likes of The Queen’s Gambit star Anya Taylor-Joy