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3 of Hong Kong’s best jewellery designers, from elder statesman Wallace Chan to Sarah Zhuang and Austy Lee, the home-grown talents inspired by the city’s energy, architecture and blend of cultures

Hong Kong jeweller Sarah Zhuang and her creation Urban Reflection. Photos: Handout

Hong Kong may not have the storied history in high jewellery that, say, Paris has, but that has not stopped jewellery designers here from producing stunning work that has attracted global attention. The city’s vibrant energy, stunning architecture, and unique mix of cultures have been cited by various designers as the key inspirations behind their creations.

Sarah Zhuang

Sarah Zhuang Jewellery’s The Magnificent.

Among them is Sarah Zhuang, who started her own high jewellery brand in 2017. Sarah Zhuang Jewellery is available online and in-store at Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and the mainland, and through Handa Watch World in various big cities across Japan.

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In 2019, her Urban Reflections creation of four rings, each featuring iconic and historic buildings from Hong Kong’s skyline, won the award for Innovative and Uniqueness in Design at the International Jewellery Design Excellence Awards, a competition among leading jewellery designers from around the world that is hosted by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council.

Sarah Zhuang Jewellery creation, Long Distance Love

“I really like architecture, and Hong Kong has a lot of famous landmarks and buildings with very interesting designs,” Zhuang said. “It’s also known as an international metropolis where East meets West – there is so much culture. I always get inspired just walking around the city, looking at these old and new buildings.”

Receiving the award was a source of local pride for Zhuang, she added, “It was very special to me to showcase the creativity and craftsmanship of Hong Kong to the world.”

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Austy Lee

The Etz haChayim brooch from Austy Lee’s Gnostic Vines collection

East and West come together in jeweller Austy Lee’s designs in the form of jade, showcased in contemporary designs. “I am always fascinated by the beauty of jade and love incorporating it into my designs,” he said. “I was raised by a family who values traditional Chinese culture and was taught to appreciate jadeite as an embodiment of the Confucian virtues of courage, wisdom, modesty, justice and compassion.”

Lee’s colourful and eclectic designs feature an aesthetic combination of colours and precious stones that one doesn’t normally associate with fine jewellery – a characteristic that has brought global attention to his brand.

Austy Lee’s The Notre Noeud ring from the Poetry of Art collection.

“When I started up my own brand, I had little resources. To attract attention, I had to create pieces that were eye-catching and extraordinary. At the same time, I was worried that people would not understand the designs as the technique applied to the pieces might be new to them,” Lee said, adding that he was grateful and glad that people from all around the world have shown appreciation for his work.

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Wallace Chan

Wallace Chan’s A World on a Leaf

Paving the way for designers like Lee and Zhuang is Wallace Chan, who started his journey to becoming a world-renowned artist in high jewellery and sculpture in 1973, at the age of 16. His creations are on permanent display at Beijing’s Capital Museum, Ningbo Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

In 2019, his A New Generation ring became the first piece of Chinese contemporary jewellery to become part of the permanent collection at London’s British Museum. The ring features sapphires, aquamarine, diamonds and what is known as “The Wallace Chan porcelain”, a type of porcelain created by Chan that is said to be stronger than steel.

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And while Chan has held exhibitions and given talks around the world, the Fuzhou-born talent still cites his long-time home, as a constant source of inspiration. “The rhythm and energy of Hong Kong are ever-inspiring to me. It’s a vibrant city, colourful, bright and all-embracing. My works reflect such qualities through the variety of subject, material, colour, texture and opacity,” Chan said.

Wallace Chan, Time Travel

For other aspiring high jewellery designers who are hoping to share their artworks with the world, Chan advised that multidisciplinary practices and lifelong learning are key, as is not being limited by preconceptions about what the industry dictates high jewellery “should” be.

“I feel that everyone has their unique stories to tell,” added Chan. “Jewellery, among other art forms, is a medium of endless possibilities.”

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  • Zhuang’s pieces are available at Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and China, and at Handa Watch World in Japan. In 2019, her Urban Reflections rings won a HKTDC International Jewellery Design Excellence Award
  • Chan’s creations are displayed at Beijing’s Capital Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and London’s British Museum, with the latter piece a ring made using ‘The Wallace Chan porcelain’