Is Gucci seeking South Korean star power too? A recent Seoul fashion show saw NewJeans member Hanni sitting front row as the luxury brand courts crucial Asian consumers

May 17 , 2023

Models present a creation by Italian brand Gucci during the Gucci 2024 cruise collection fashion show at Gyeongbok-gung Palace in Seoul, South Korea, on May 16. Photo: EPA-EFE

Gucci hosted its first fashion show in Seoul in at least eight years as the label seeks to capitalise on South Korea’s rising cultural cachet while courting luxury consumers in the crucial Asian market.

Models walk on the runway during the Gucci cruise 2024 collection fashion show at the Gyeongbok Palace in Seoul, South Korea, on May 16. Photo: Reuters

The brand, owned by Kering SA, held its show in the courtyard of the Gyeongbokgung Palace in central Seoul. The evening spectacle featured the music of the Oscar-winning Korean movie Parasite, traditional drumming and flashing lights reflecting off stone floors.

South Korea – the biggest market for luxury goods on a per capita basis in 2022 – has become a magnet for global brands. Last month, LVMH’s largest label, Louis Vuitton, also held a fashion show in Seoul.

Models walk on the runway donning colourful outfits during Gucci’s cruise 2024 collection fashion show at the Gyeongbok Palace in Seoul, South Korea, on May 16. Photo: Reuters

This was Gucci’s first show in Korea since Marco Bizzarri became the label’s chief executive officer in 2015. The Italian label generated around nine per cent of its retail sales to Koreans last year, Morgan Stanley estimated. Actress Saoirse Ronan and K-pop star Hanni – a member of the group NewJeans – were among VIP guests at the show.

A model presents a Y2K-style creation by Italian brand Gucci during the brand’s 2024 cruise collection fashion show at Gyeongbok-gung Palace in Seoul, on May 16. Photo: AFP

In the cruise show, the brand veered from retro-futuristic garb like silver metal jackets reminiscent of a 1970s take on the future to streetwear styles, including a model sporting baggy black trousers and a Gucci briefcase carrying a skateboard. Gucci’s familiar GG canvas pattern featured prominently on tops and handbags.

A model presents a creation by Italian brand Gucci featuring its signature red hue during the Gucci 2024 cruise collection fashion show at Gyeongbok-gung Palace in Seoul, South Korea, on May 16. Photo: EPA-EFE

Kering has struggled in the past few years as Gucci’s appeal has waned among shoppers who are tired of the designs by Gucci’s former creative director Alessandro Michele who left in November.

A model presents an all-black creation with a statement necklace by Italian brand Gucci during the Gucci 2024 cruise collection fashion show at Gyeongbok-gung Palace in Seoul, on May 16. Photo: AFP

Tuesday’s creations were designed by Gucci’s in-house design team, as its recently appointed creative director Sabato de Sarno will only unveil his debut collection in September during Milan Fashion Week. His creations will be available for sale early next year.

A models presents a graphic tee, loose black pants and a chunky chain belt by Italian brand Gucci during the Gucci 2024 cruise collection fashion show at Gyeongbok-gung Palace in Seoul, South Korea, on May 16. Photo: EPA-EFE

The Italian label generated about two-thirds of Kering’s operating profit in 2022, but comparable sales barely grew during the period. They also rose only slightly in the first quarter of this year while competitors such as Hermès International and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE posted double-digit growth rates.

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Gucci

The Italian label’s parent company Kering only saw a slight rise in sales this year while competitors LVMH and Hermès boasted much more – Louis Vuitton recently had a show in Seoul too
Shoppers are bored of former creative director Alessandro Michele’s designs, but new head Sabato de Sarno’s work will only debut at the upcoming Milan Fashion Week