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Prices are up but watch lovers are still buying Rolex and Omega – demand for timepieces is booming, says Omega-owner Swatch Group and Watches of Switzerland, the UK’s biggest retailer

Prices are up but watch lovers are still buying classic watch brands like Omega and Rolex (pictured), according to Swatch Group and Watches of Switzerland, the UK’s biggest retailer. Photo: Rolex
Omega producer Swatch Group AG, and Watches of Switzerland Group, the UK’s biggest retailer of Rolex watches, have both signalled that the appetite for Swiss timepieces remains healthy, even as prices go higher.
People walk past a billboard for Swiss luxury watch retailer Blancpain at a shopping centre in Beijing in June. Photo: AP

Swatch shares rose as much as 7 per cent as CEO Nick Hayek said revenue may reach a record this year helped by demand in China and the US. Separately, Watches of Switzerland surged as much as 18 per cent after the UK retailer said demand for luxury timepieces is still solid despite price increases by some of the biggest brands.

Swatch’s CEO Nick Hayek. Photo: Omega

As first-half earnings exceeded pre-pandemic levels for the first time, Hayek said in an interview that demand for lower-priced watches in Asia and the US remains strong. He also pointed out that China has still not made a full recovery.

An Omega MoonSwatch at the watch’s launch at The Royal Exchange in London, in March. Photo: Bloomberg

Swiss watch exports have continued to increase in 2023 after reaching a record of more than 24 billion francs (around US$28 billion) last year. The reports assuaged concerns that the demand for luxury goods in the US might be waning. Watch exports to that market dipped in April.

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Classic Rolex models. Photo: Shutterstock

“What is really impressive is the [strength of the] US as well as Europe across all price segments,” Hayek said.

Average sales per Swatch store rose 30 per cent worldwide, boosting the revenue that the group gets from its retail network to 40 per cent of its total.

“Here you see the strength of consumption, even in the US,” the CEO said.

The booth of luxury watchmaker Ulysse Nardin on the opening day of the Watches and Wonders Geneva fair in March. Photo: AFP

Operating profit advanced 36 per cent to 686 million francs in the first half, said the maker of Omega and Longines watches. Analysts had expected 604 million francs.

Revenue reached 4 billion francs, topping the previous first half record hit in 2018. Sales in Hong Kong tripled, while mainland China grew by double digits.

A display at the booth of Swiss watch manufacturer IWC on the opening day of Watches and Wonders Geneva in March. Photo: AFP

The company said growth was strongest in the lowest price segment of watches and jewellery. Demand for the company’s popular Omega MoonSwatch collaboration, priced at around US$260, has accelerated.

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Tourist destinations such as Thailand and Macau benefited from a recovery in travel, Swatch Group said. Sales in Switzerland gained 50 per cent, followed by strong growth in markets such as Italy, Spain and France.

Watches from the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collection in a window of a Swatch shop in Zurich, in March 2022. Photo: Reuters

A weak US dollar and euro against the franc shaved 242 million francs from first-half revenue.

According to the company’s half-year report sees “excellent” growth opportunities for the second half of 2023. “The only cloud on the horizon remains the unfavourable currency environment,” it says.

Omega and other Swatch brands recently raised prices by about 8 per cent in the US, which could offset part of the foreign-exchange impact. Hayek said he didn’t expect the price rise to hurt sales as new product launches will boost demand, he said.
Crowds flocked back to the 2023 Watches and Wonders Geneva fair. Photo: Keystone

Watches of Switzerland reported sales of £1.54 billion (US$2 billion) for the year through April, matching analysts’ consensus estimates. The company reiterated its full-year forecast for 2024.

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Wait-lists for the most in-demand timepieces are increasing, as are average selling prices, CEO Brian Duffy said in an interview. In January, Rolex raised its UK prices by an average of around 2.5 per cent across its range, though certain models saw steeper rises.

“Elevated conditions remain and we are adding more people to the waiting lists than we are managing to take off, despite us editing down some of the names,” Duffy said.

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Timepieces
  • Wait-lists are increasing as are average selling prices, said Watches of Switzerland CEO Brian Duffy – Rolex raised its UK prices by an average of 2.5 per cent across its range this year
  • Swatch Group includes brands like Longines, Blancpain and Tissot, and its CEO Nick Hayek highlights demand for lower-priced models like the Omega MoonSwatch in the US and across Asia