How to get heart-shaped jewellery right: beyond Chopard and Tiffany & Co.’s iconic collections, discover 4 contemporary designers pumping fresh blood into the time-worn motif of love

Oct 5, 2023

Elhanati’s black choker offers a modern twist on a familiar emblem, the heart-shape necklace. Photos: Handout

Suzanne Kalan’s heart-shaped diamond necklace and pink sapphire baguette ring have both become bestsellers, while Yvonne Léon’s designs emphasise sisterhood and self-love

Elhanati’s Black Orchid collection strikes enigmatic yet romantic notes riffing on the mysteries of love, while Cece Jewellery’s Love Me Forever ring reaches straight for Cupid’s arrow

If you haven’t hankered for a heart-shaped piece of jewellery since eternal (and beloved) spinster Bridget Jones wore her sweet and wonky Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. necklace throughout the entire first movie, then now might be the time.

Marie Lichtenberg heart charm on rosa micro chain

Though as Stellene Volandes, editor-in-chief of Town & Country and author of Jeweler: Masters, Mavericks and Visionaries of Modern Design, recently pointed out, some of the world’s most noted jewellery collectors – including those of Wallis Simpson and socialite Millicent Rogers – had serious heart-shaped pieces in their collections.

The Duchess of Windsor’s collection included a custom heart-shaped brooch set with diamonds, and a monogram of her and husband King Edward VIII’s initials set with emeralds, while Rogers’ puffy ruby heart with a yellow diamond arrow became an icon of 20th century jewellery.

Now, from Chopard’s Happy Hearts collection and Tiffany & Co.’s iconic open heart necklaces to today’s coolest jewellery brands – such as Irene Neuwirth with her turquoise heart drops, Suzanne Kalan’s signature Firework clusters of baguette diamonds, Yvonne Léon’s enamel signet rings and Australian jeweller Olivia Bond’s gold puffy heart necklaces – hearts are everywhere.

Yvonne Léon

Perhaps it’s the innate sentimentality of the shape that keeps the allure burning – who can forget the power of wearing a heart-shaped locket from a beau in high school, or the profound seriousness of splitting a heart-shaped friendship necklace with your best friend?

“I am in love with love and am a such romantic! I have always loved heart jewellery since I was a little girl, so I naturally decided to incorporate heart jewellery in my collections. People love the heart, it never goes out of style as it is the best way to show someone your love,” says Parisian jeweller Yvonne Léon. However, the founder of her namesake brand also sees the heart as a way for women to demonstrate self-love.

“I often find that women buy heart jewels for themselves and don’t wait for it as a present, and I absolutely love this!”