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From Taylor Swift to Kate Middleton, the world’s most sophisticated women embrace the elementary allure of letter necklaces – Meghan Markle, Hailey Bieber and Bad Bunny are initial jewellery fans, too

Taylor Swift shows her loyalty to boyfriend Travis Kelce with a necklace referencing his jersey number with the Kansas City Chiefs. Photo: Instagram

Few trends are as sentimental or, indeed, timeless, as initial jewellery. The personalised style has been an enduring favourite since the 16th century when Anne Boleyn, Henry VIII’s second wife, famously wore a pearl necklace from which she hung a golden “B”.

Catherine, Princess of Wales, showed off jewellery personalised with her children’s initials in Edinburgh in 2021 and other A-listers are jumping on the trend. Photo: Getty Images

Today, heritage houses and independent designers alike are bringing modern updates to personalised jewellery with enchanting designs and strong aesthetics, spanning gemstone initial charms, chokers and bracelets in enamel, pearl, and pavé diamond; and stunning keepsakes that stretch beyond single initials to meaningful words and phrases spelled out in the finest metals.

Dior Joaillerie, the high and fine jewellery division of the French fashion house helmed by Victoire de Castellane since 1999, has championed precious lettering since 2005 with the release of its Oui collection. A ring, available in yellow, white or pink gold, along with a necklace, bracelet and earrings, spell out “Oui” as if drawn by hand, with a small diamond dot on the “i”, each letter elegantly curled like a strand of thread in a nod to the maison’s storied ateliers. In 2023, the collection was reinvented as Dioramour with new novelties that featured the words “Je t’aime” (“I love you”) and “Toi, moi” (“You, me”).

Taylor Swift’s “J” pendant, widely understood to reference ex Joe Alwyn. Photo: @taylorswift/Instagram

London-based designer Lily Gabriella puts her own bold, graphic spin on the trend with her Ouh Lala collection which, as the name suggests, spells out the famous French phrase in gold lettering. It’s one of her most popular jewellery offerings to date. Gabriella notes that “in general, my pieces are designed with wearability and comfort in mind, ensuring a lightness of touch without compromising on quality, materials and form. The Ouh Lala collection, in particular, serves as a playful nod to my French upbringing, infusing each piece with a touch of whimsy and sophistication. Crafted with intricate looping scripts of gold or gemstone pavé, these pieces not only embody dainty elegance but also act as fun conversation starters.”

Dolce & Gabbana Fine Jewellery Alphabet collection

Meanwhile, at Dolce & Gabbana, yellow gold pendants and charms are strung with letters and numbers as part of the Italian fashion house’s Alphabet collection. First introduced in 2021, the fine jewellery line is inspired by the power of letters to gain meaning as they are transformed into words and messages. The pendants themselves are studded with semi-precious gemstones – including topaz, garnet, amethyst, citrine, peridot and tourmaline to evoke the warm climate of Sicily – and suspended from chains embellished with a teardrop pearl and a small pendant DG logo.

A red letter day for Hailey Bieber? As seen in August 2023 in New York. Photo: GC Images

If it’s subtlety you’re after, London-based Rachel Boston is certain to please. Her custom signet rings can be hand-engraved with a name, date or initials to create a truly unique piece. Available in white, yellow or rose gold, Boston adds flair to the jewellery staple with geometric forms, including rectangular, hexagonal and octagonal silhouettes.

Pacharee pendant necklaces
Beyond established brands, the trend has A-list approval, too. British royalty including Kate Middleton, Princess of Wales, and Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex, have both been seen sporting custom pieces, with Middleton opting for a gold Daniella Draper chain necklace engraved with “G C L” for her children Prince George, Princess Charlotte and Prince Louis, while the Montreal-based jewellery company The Right Hand Gal were commissioned by Markle to create her own initial necklace with the letters “H” and “M” spaced along its length. More recently, the likes of Hailey Bieber, Bad Bunny and all-conquering pop princess Taylor Swift have hopped on the trend, showcasing not only the A-list allure of initial jewellery, but its diverse appeal.
Taylor Swift shows her feelings around her neck. Photo: @taylorswift/Instagram

“Each piece carries a unique story, whether it’s a beloved initial or a meaningful word delicately crafted into the design,” says Gabriella. “This personalised touch adds a sense of identity and sentimentality to the jewellery, making it not just an accessory but a cherished keepsake. Additionally, the elegance and versatility of lettering allow for endless possibilities in design, from delicate script to bold typography, catering to various styles and preferences. It is a service I offer to clients and I love when they partake in making their piece truly theirs.”

  • Long before Taylor Swift, Hailey Bieber and Bad Bunny made jewellery with letters and numbers a thing again, Henry VIII’s second wife Anne Boleyn wore a pearl necklace from which hung a golden ‘B’
  • Lily Gabriella, Rachel Boston, The Right Hand Gal and Daniella Draper are among the smaller brands offering letter jewellery – while Dior Joaillerie’s Oui collection has been reinvented as Dioramour