LV gets in on the act

As men’s jewellery grows in popularity, fashion houses are capitalising on the trend. In January, French luxury giant Louis Vuitton launched its first high jewellery line for men, including bracelets, rings, earrings and pendants in white and yellow gold, as well as more modern materials like titanium.

Entry-level items in the range include a small white gold ring and a single stud earring. At the more exclusive end of the spectrum there is a white gold ring set with 140 diamonds, or an extravagant laser-cut white gold necklace dripping in gems.

Les Gastons also includes that perennial gentleman’s favourite, the signet ring. Like many other items in the collection, it bears the recognisable LV monogram – contrary to the long-standing tradition of having a signet ring that carries a family crest or one’s own initials.

“I wouldn’t wear a signet ring with LV on it unless my name was Vince Lambert or Leslie Valentine or something,” said British stylist Tom Stubbs, who has dressed an array of prominent people for decades, including actors Eddie Redmayne and Mark Strong, actor-singer Luke Evans, actor-filmmaker-rapper Ed Skrein and singer-songwriter David Gray.

A fresh spin on the signet ring

Stubbs said he and his friends – none of whom were born into the English upper class – subvert the establishment roots of signet rings by wearing London jeweller Toby McLellan’s insouciant yet luxurious variants, which he calls a cross between “players’ pinkie rings” and traditional signet ring styling. These can be shaped like champagne labels, engraved with cheeky insider’s references and personal messages, emblazoned with graffiti lettering, or made featuring that raver favourite, the smiley face.

“We like a signet, but we wear them differently to the posh blokes,” Stubbs said. “We’re not landed gentry, so the way we do it is a bit ironic.”

In addition to experimenting with signet rings, Stubbs says jewellery-curious men should consider trying a neck chain that hits sexily at the sternum level, weighted with a custom pendant or a personal piece. “On mine, I’ve currently got a tiny cameo ring that was my mother’s, given to her by my dad. I like jewellery to have a bit of a story,” he said.

That story can also derive from an item’s origins with a respected maker, boasting deep roots in the industry. “For men especially, jewellery is a lot like shoes – you have to invest in quality,” Stubbs said.

“You’ve got to have the good stuff and ideally it will be from a company with a history in jewellery, like Bulgari or Cartier – proper houses with cachet and lineage.”

Provenance and period made are key

Cristel Tan, international jewellery specialist, Southeast Asia, at Phillips auction house, affirms that the history of a piece of jewellery and who made it – its provenance – are of vital importance.

“Research particular brands and periods,” she advised the man exploring a big-ticket jewellery acquisition. “Cartier from the 1920s, for example, is particularly collectable.”

She recommends Taffin as a contemporary jeweller with strong unisex appeal, and suggests connoisseurs look into the highly sought-after Joel Arthur Rosenthal, aka JAR – both based in New York.

First and foremost though, men should buy what they like and will enjoy wearing, Tan says, being mindful that something personal like an engraved signet ring may become a sentimentally priceless family heirloom, but it won’t necessarily be an investment that appreciates over time in monetary terms.

“We don’t tend to offer those sorts of things at auction, unless the owner was someone famous or renowned,” she explained.

As for current trends in jewellery for men, “Brooches are definitely coming back,” Tan said. “It’s interesting to see men appreciating the more traditional pieces, like jabot pins [a brooch that showcases its two decorative, jewel-encrusted ends], or using a brooch in an interesting way – as a fastening for their tuxedo jacket, for example.”

She has noted the return of wrist-worn adornments. “We’re seeing men wearing things like Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra bracelets – they’re embracing this trend of having more accessories,” Tan said. “And I notice more men wearing a diamond eternity bracelet along with their watch.”

Phillips has begun putting jewellery on male models in its auction catalogues, juxtaposing casual garments such as jeans and T-shirts with valuable bejewelled pieces.

“It demonstrates that you can wear this jewellery another way, it’s not just about formal events,” Tan said. Men can dress in a down-to-earth way, then when they add a piece of truly outstanding jewellery, “it elevates their whole look”.