Moonstone’s timeless allure shines in Chanel, Pomellato and Tiffany & Co. collections
The allure of the moonstone is waxing, its beguiling glow decorating new drops from major houses like Chanel and Tiffany & Co., and specialist jewellers like Boodles and Hirsh London
Moonstone is having a moment. Known for its soft glow and shifting colours, it’s a gemstone that jewellers from big-name houses to independent designers are increasingly turning to. But while it’s enjoying a surge in popularity, moonstone has been used in jewellery for centuries.
In ancient Rome, moonstone was steeped in mythology. It was said to be formed from solidified moonlight, with some believing the image of the moon goddess Diana could be seen within its surface. In India, it was – and in many places still is – regarded as sacred and believed to bring good fortune to the wearer. During the Art Nouveau era of 1890-1910, it became a favourite of jewellers like René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany.
Moonstone is a variety of feldspar, formed when orthoclase and albite layers cool at different rates. This structure produces adularescence, the optical effect responsible for its distinctive glow. Major sources include Sri Lanka, India, Myanmar and Madagascar, with rainbow moonstones especially valued for their clarity. Now it’s back in the spotlight as a luminous centrepiece in some of the season’s stand-out collections.
Pomellato, the Milanese jeweller known for its bold colour combinations, has also embraced moonstone in its new Collezione 1967 high jewellery range. Unveiled at the historic Pinacoteca di Brera in Milan, the collection includes the Key to the Moon brooch, which mixes diamonds with moonstone cabochons in a stylised key design.
Tiffany & Co. features moonstone in the summer chapter of its Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder high jewellery collection. Set among white diamonds and coloured sapphires, the gem plays a starring role in ocean-inspired pieces, including a seahorse brooch based on a 1968 Jean Schlumberger design, as well as accompanying cocktail rings and collar necklaces.
British jeweller Boodles has used moonstone in both one-off pieces and core collections. “Moonstones have such an enigmatic quality, presenting different flashes of colour with the changing light and the movement of the wearer,” says director of design Rebecca Hawkins. In the brand’s Raindrop collection, they’re paired with pink opal and diamonds to evoke ripples, while the one-off Ice Skater cuff features elongated moonstones. “[They] partner well with other gemstones to strengthen the narrative,” she adds.