The return of jewelled hairpieces, boasting fans like Lisa from Blackpink and Megan Thee Stallion
Dior, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels – along with independent jewellers like Jessica McCormack – are turning diamonds into dazzling hair ornaments
Elaborately jewelled hair adornments are deeply rooted in Asian cultural heritage – from the court ladies of the Qing dynasty and the geishas of Japan, to bridal traditions across Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. Beyond the tiaras of European aristocrats and the silver and tortoiseshell hair combs of the Edwardians – who loved voluminous hairstyles – such jewelled adornments played a less central role in the West.
Transformability adds to the appeal of these jewels. At Chaumet, diamond sprays, pink sapphire and diamond flower clips, and a yellow diamond bumblebee, all designed to be pinned in the hair, can also be worn as brooches. Such transformability has historical roots at Chaumet, Cartier and Garrard in London, whose diamond tiaras – worn at court – could also be converted into marginally more practical necklaces. Today, Cartier’s new Le Choeur des Pierres high jewellery collection includes Pyra – its orange and white pear-shaped diamonds set on stems rising above the ear – which has the versatility to be worn as an earring, brooch or hair jewel.
In the contemporary jewellery world, designers like Ellis Mhairi Cameron – whose versatile gold and diamond designs draw on the kilt pins symbolic of her Scottish heritage – and Sarah Emilie Müllertz of Kinraden in Denmark are creating head-turning single and double-prong hairpins that share that multipurpose role. “I find it fascinating to work with hairpins and hair adornment in general, and it is definitely an area I would love to explore further,” Müllertz says. Her silver Floris double-pronged pin can be worn both in the hair or on a chunky knit sweater. “I really appreciate that dual functionality within the piece and the versatility it brings to the style,” she adds.
