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From Swatch x Blancpain to Patek x Tiffany, watch collaborations are here to stay, with super brands like Louis Vuitton, Ferrari and Lamborghini all partnering with luxury timepiece marquees

A Mission to the Moon MoonSwatch with a seconds hand made of Omega’s Moonshine Gold. Today, watchmakers Omega, Cartier, Patek Philippe, Blancpain, Richard Mille and Swatch show the value of collaborations, working together with each other and the likes of Louis Vuitton, Ferrari, Lamborghini and Tiffany & Co. Photo: @swatch/Instagram

In May this year, Bloomberg reported that Swatch sold more than a million MoonSwatches in 2022. Analysts at Morgan Stanley estimate sales of around 1.8 million this year. Costing US$260 a pop, the MoonSwatch comes in 12 colours, each representing a planet, and is a nod to its sister brand Omega’s flagship sports timepiece, the Speedmaster Moonwatch.

For days, people around the world lined up outside Swatch boutiques, some braving extreme weather, and most witnessing chaos and even violence as they competed for a spot in line to get their hands on these affordable watches made of bioceramic, a material that mixes ceramic with biosourced material – in this case, pulp from castor oil seeds – and a Velcro fabric strap.

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Customers clamour outside Swatch’s Causeway Bay shop on the launch of the Swatch Omega Speedmaster MoonSwatch. Photo: Dickson Lee

Immediately after its release, resellers flooded online marketplaces, offering the pieces at as much as five times their retail price. Even Omega spokesperson and James Bond actor Daniel Craig wore a deep navy Neptune version.

Watch enthusiast, co-founder and CEO of pre-owned watch platform Wristcheck, Austen Chu, is also a fan: “The Swatch and Omega crossover was probably one of the coolest things to happen in the watch industry. The most important thing is to bring in as many people as possible into the world of horology, and this was the perfect entry point.”

Swatch honours the legendary Blancpain Fifty Fathoms with five models made from bioceramic material, powered by its Sistem51 mechanical movement and water resistant down to 91 metres. Photo: @blancpain1735/Instagram

This year, Swatch Group followed that successful collaboration with a crossover with another sister brand, Blancpain, bringing the same colourful execution to its Fifty Fathoms divers’ watch.

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The conglomerate, with its vertically integrated watchmaking capabilities and huge number of brands, is well positioned to pursue such collaborations, driving attention to its premium marques without tarnishing their reputation.

“It exponentially boosted awareness of the iconic luxury sports models – the Speedmaster and Fifty Fathoms – and their history, to the general public on a global level,” says Gertrude Wong, watch specialist at auctioneers Phillips, “and I mean literally from the age of six to 60, if you ask them if they know what a MoonSwatch is now, they could probably tell you.”

The MoonSwatch is made from a new, more sustainable bioceramic. Photo: Handout
The Omega and Blancpain collections gave consumers a taste of luxury at a highly accessible price point. Wong believes it’s a smart move that will ultimately help drive a new demographic to Swatch Group’s premium brands. “The playful bioceramic iteration becomes a stepping stone to the brands for mass market,” she says. “And as these buyers grow on their journey of watch collecting, the ‘real’ Omega Moonwatch or Blancpain Fifty Fathoms becomes a natural evolution in their minds.”

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While limited collaboration series are not unusual in watchmaking, they’re primarily between watchmakers and individuals, events or brands in other luxury categories. Richard Mille’s long-standing relationship with Ferrari and Roger Dubuis’ designs with Lamborghini are ongoing collaborations, for instance. A piece like the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph Hampton Court Edition was created to commemorate the classic car event Concours of Elegance. However, these collaborations often appeal to a small community of sophisticated watch collectors already well-versed in the brands concerned and what they offer.
Tiffany x Patek Philippe Nautilus. Photo: @female_singapore/Instagram

For two watch brands to come together to create a timepiece is a more recent phenomenon and most luxury brands are unlikely to be able to compete at Swatch’s price point. Instead of aiming to push more product, collaborations such as that between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. to produce a blue-dialled Nautilus 5711/1A-018, could be seen as an extension of brand building.

“That model definitely grabbed attention outside of the watch world. Whether it is popular culture following the success of the Tiffany and Supreme collab, or jewellery-focused clientele, the attention certainly peaked with headlines on the auction result overnight,” says Wong, referring to the jeweller’s earlier work with the streetwear brand.

Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe, engineered a collaboration with Tiffany & Co. that saw the end of the Nautilus 5711 line. Photo: Handout

According to Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern, the motivation for the collaboration was to mark the friendly 170-year partnership between the two names. “This was my little gift to say congratulations on buying Tiffany,” Stern told CNBC in an interview, referencing the US$15.8 billion sale of Tiffany & Co. to French luxury conglomerate LVMH.

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The watch has all the trimmings: a Tiffany Blue dial, the Tiffany & Co. and Patek logos at 6 and 12 o’clock, respectively, and a caseback with the anniversary inscription. It was also the final chapter of the Nautilus Ref. 5711 before it was discontinued.

At as much as US$6.5 million a piece and with only 170 pieces available, it’s not something for the masses. Nonetheless, the collaboration created unprecedented hype for both brands. Buzz around who got their hands on the first pieces and photos of celebrities like LeBron James and Leonardo DiCaprio wearing the watch took over social media.

The MoonSwatch is a collaboration between the Omega brand and the group’s entry level Swatch marque. Photo: Reuters

Those previously unfamiliar with Tiffany & Co. could be nudged to explore it’s more budget-friendly items, such as its silver jewellery or stainless steel quartz watches.

There are likely to be more collaborations to come. They generate excitement in the luxury consumer space and the potential synergy between brands not in the same price range or category – such as that between Gucci and The North Face or Hermès and Apple – proves that when done right, a collaboration can broaden the appeal of both parties.

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Chu cautions that too many collaboration collections could lead to fatigue: “As we can observe in the fashion world – whether it’s sneakers or anything else – collaborations don’t hold the same significance as they did five years ago.”

Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Photo: Handout

Still, both Chu and Wong believe that with watches at least, there’s plenty of room to grow for the foreseeable future.

“We see that Akrivia has just announced the latest Louis Vuitton collaboration. Being the first of five independent watchmaker projects in the pipeline, it will be an exciting way to raise the awareness of the mass market to independent watchmaking,” says Wong.

Chu agrees that independent brands are well positioned to drive this trend. “The most successful collaborations are when independent brands collaborate with each other,” he adds. “They bring their respective brand DNA and create new DNA out of that. Instead of just sticking a brand’s logo on a watch and calling it a day, they create something unique.”

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  • More than a million MoonSwatches, based on Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch, have been sold, priced at an accessible US$260 – James Bond actor Daniel Craig even wears one
  • Richard Mille has a relationship with Ferrari and Roger Dubuis has worked with Lamborghini, while the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph Hampton Court Edition commemorates the classic car event Concours of Elegance